Bilbao
Bilbao old town: the Casco Viejo, the seven streets and the pintxos bars
Seven narrow medieval streets, an arcaded square full of bars and a market hall by the river. This is Bilbao’s old town, and how to eat your way through it, one pintxo at a time.
It is late afternoon, and the counter of the little bar is covered from end to end. Slices of bread topped with anchovies, peppers, ham and creamy salt cod, piled on platters under glass domes. The barman nods, you point, and your plate fills up. When your glass is empty, you move on to the next bar, twenty metres down the street. This is how people in Bilbao have eaten for generations, and the old town is the place to experience it.
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What are pintxos?
Pintxos are the Basque answer to tapas: small dishes, often served on a slice of bread and held together with a toothpick. They are lined up on the bar so you can choose with your eyes. Many bars also make hot pintxos to order, usually written on a board behind the counter.
Siete Calles: the seven streets
The Casco Viejo, the old town, grew up by the Nervión river in the Middle Ages. Its heart is the seven original streets, the Siete Calles, running parallel down to the river. Here are the Santiago Cathedral, small shops, bakeries and bars side by side. The streets are narrow and car-free, and it is easy to get lost, but never for long.
Plaza Nueva: bars under the arcades
Plaza Nueva is a large, square plaza from the 1800s, surrounded by arcades. Under the arches are some of the city’s best-known pintxos bars, and on Sundays there is a market on the square. In the evening it fills with people standing with a glass in hand, talking in a mix of Spanish and Basque.
Mercado de la Ribera: the market hall by the river
On the riverbank stands the Mercado de la Ribera, one of the largest market halls in Europe. Fishmongers and butchers sell local produce, and in the same hall is a gastrobar with pintxos stalls and long tables. A good place for lunch, especially on a rainy day.
Bilbao on the Nervión. Photo: Picolo
How to eat pintxos like a local
The Basques have a word for going from bar to bar: txikiteo. The idea is to have one or two pintxos and a small glass in each bar, then move on. That way you taste more and meet more people.
Order at the bar: Point at what you want, or ask for the hot pintxo of the day.
Pay at the end: In many bars you say what you have eaten when you leave.
Drink little and often: Order a small glass of wine, a txakoli or a small beer, a zurito.
Come early or late: Bars fill up around lunch and from early evening, and the atmosphere is best when it is crowded.
Pintxos you should try
Gilda: Olive, anchovy and pickled chilli pepper on a skewer. A classic.
Bacalao: Salt cod, often in a creamy sauce or as croquettes.
Tortilla: The Spanish potato omelette, ideally soft in the middle.
Txipirones: Small squid, often served in their own black ink.
More to see in the old town
By the river stands the Teatro Arriaga opera house, named after the composer known as the Spanish Mozart. From the old town you can climb the steps or take the lift up to the basilica of Begoña, with views over the city. And a short walk along the river takes you to the Guggenheim.
Stay in the old town
Stay in the Casco Viejo and the pintxos bars and market hall are right outside. For somewhere quieter, stay by the river or in Ensanche and walk into the old town in the evening.
Petit Palace Arana: in the heart of the old town
A hotel in an old townhouse in the Casco Viejo, with the seven streets right outside.
Book your stay: See rooms at Petit Palace Arana
Barceló Bilbao Nervión: by the river
A hotel with a restaurant on the riverbank, a short walk over the bridge to the old town.
Book your stay: See rooms at Barceló Bilbao Nervión
The Artist Grand Hotel of Art: by the Guggenheim
A luxury hotel opposite the Guggenheim, a lovely riverside walk from the old town.
Book your stay: See rooms at The Artist Grand Hotel of Art
See all the areas in our guide to where to stay in Bilbao.
Frequently asked questions about Bilbao old town
What is the Casco Viejo?
The Casco Viejo is Bilbao’s old town, with its seven original medieval streets, the cathedral, Plaza Nueva and the Mercado de la Ribera market hall.
Where are the best pintxos bars in Bilbao?
Around Plaza Nueva and in the seven streets of the Casco Viejo you will find many of the city’s best-known pintxos bars.
What is the difference between pintxos and tapas?
Pintxos are the Basque version of tapas, often served on bread and lined up on the bar so you can choose yourself.
How much time do you need in the old town?
Half a day is enough to see the streets and the market hall. Save an evening for the pintxos bars.