Experiences
Monument Valley, Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend
Red stone buttes in the desert, shafts of light in a narrow slot canyon and a river bending into a horseshoe. How to see the best of Navajo country.
You have seen it in westerns and adverts all your life, but nothing beats watching the sun rise behind the red buttes of Monument Valley. The shadows are long, the sand glows, and it is completely silent.
Monument Valley, Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend all lie in the borderlands between Arizona and Utah, on or near Navajo land. With Page as a base you can see all three in two to three days, and the Grand Canyon is a couple of hours away.
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How to do it
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is run by the Navajo Nation. You can drive the unpaved Valley Drive yourself, or join a guided tour into areas that are otherwise closed.
Antelope Canyon can only be visited with a Navajo guide. Book ahead, especially for Upper Antelope in the middle of the day.
Horseshoe Bend is a short walk from the car park just south of Page.
Plan your driving with a good margin. There are long stretches without petrol stations.
Monument Valley
The most famous formations are The Mittens and Merrick Butte, visible straight from the visitor centre. Valley Drive loops between the buttes on a bumpy dirt road. With a Navajo guide you get further in, hear the stories and see arches and petroglyphs you could not otherwise reach.
On Highway 163 north of the park is Forrest Gump Point, the famous spot where the road runs straight towards the monuments. Stop, but watch out for traffic.
Monument Valley
The buttes are what is left of a plateau worn away by wind and water. Photo: marc phillips / Unsplash
Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend
In Upper Antelope Canyon, beams of light fall through the crack in the roof around midday, most visibly in summer. Lower Antelope Canyon has more stairs and narrow passages and is often a little less crowded. Both are waves of orange sandstone that look as if they were carved by hand.
Horseshoe Bend is where the Colorado River makes an almost perfect loop far below. Arrive early in the morning or just before sunset, and keep well back from the edge.
Book experiences: See Antelope Canyon tours and activities around Page
Where to stay for Monument Valley and Page
Spend at least one night in Monument Valley for sunrise, and one or two in Page for Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend and Lake Powell.
The View Hotel
The monuments right outside the window. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
The View Hotel: sunrise from your bed
The View Hotel is inside the tribal park and built for the view: the monuments stand right outside. You can watch the sun rise behind The Mittens without leaving your room.
Book your stay: See rooms at The View Hotel
Goulding's Lodge
Red desert and cliffs from the balcony. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Goulding's Lodge: a historic trading post
Goulding's Lodge sits next to the park by the old trading post where film crews stayed when the classic westerns were shot here. The lodge has an indoor pool and long views over the desert.
Book your stay: See rooms at Goulding's Lodge
Hyatt Place Page Lake Powell: a practical base in Page
In Page you are close to both Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend. Hyatt Place is a simple, practical choice with breakfast included.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hyatt Place Page Lake Powell
When is the best time to go?
Spring and autumn bring pleasant temperatures and good light. In summer the light beams in Upper Antelope Canyon are at their clearest, but it is hot and busy. Winter mornings are cold, but there are few visitors and the air is often crystal clear.
When should you book?
Antelope Canyon: several weeks ahead, especially midday slots in summer.
The View Hotel: many months ahead, the rooms with the best views go first.
Guided tours in Monument Valley: a few days ahead.
Frequently asked questions about Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon
Where should I stay for Monument Valley?
Stay at The View Hotel inside the tribal park to watch sunrise from your room, or at Goulding's Lodge next door. Page is a better base for Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend.
Can you visit Antelope Canyon without a guide?
No. Antelope Canyon is on Navajo land and can only be visited on a guided tour. Book ahead, especially in high season.
How far is Monument Valley from Page?
It is around two hours by car from Page to Monument Valley. From Page to the Grand Canyon South Rim is about two and a half hours.
Can you drive yourself in Monument Valley?
Yes, you can drive the unpaved Valley Drive in your own car. To reach the restricted parts of the valley you need a guided tour with a Navajo guide.
When are the light beams in Antelope Canyon best?
The light beams in Upper Antelope Canyon are clearest around midday from spring to early autumn, most of all in summer.