Experiences
Grand Canyon: viewpoints, hikes and where to stay
First light hits the rim and the rock shifts from grey to rust and pink. How to experience the Grand Canyon, and where to stay closest to the edge.
Nothing quite prepares you for the first look into the Grand Canyon. The gorge is around a mile deep, and the Colorado River is a thin green thread far below. Sound almost disappears: just the wind, and the odd raven gliding past beneath your feet.
Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona is one of the most visited natural sights in the United States, and most people come for a single day. That is a shame. The rim is at its best at sunrise and sunset, when the day-trippers from Las Vegas are already heading home. Stay overnight by the rim and you get both.
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How to do it
South Rim is open all year and has most of the viewpoints, hotels and free park shuttles.
North Rim is higher and quieter, and closes in winter. The two rims are several hours apart by road.
Grand Canyon West, home of the Skywalk, is closest to Las Vegas and run by the Hualapai Tribe, outside the national park.
Drive from Las Vegas, Phoenix or Flagstaff, or take the train from Williams. A hire car gives you the most freedom.
The best viewpoints on the South Rim
Mather Point is where most people get their first look, and for good reason: the view opens up suddenly right by the visitor centre. Walk on along the Rim Trail to Yavapai Point, where a small geology museum explains what you are actually looking at.
West of the village runs Hermit Road, open only to park shuttles for much of the year. Hop off at Hopi Point for sunset. To the east, Desert View has the old stone watchtower and views of the river and the desert beyond.
The layers
Every stripe is a separate chapter of the earth's history. Photo: Michael Kirsh / Unsplash
Hiking below the rim
The Bright Angel Trail and South Kaibab Trail take you down below the rim. Walk for an hour and turn back, and you will have felt the scale of the place. The climb out takes twice as long as the walk down, and it gets much hotter the lower you go.
Rangers advise against hiking to the river and back in a single day, especially in summer. If you want to reach the bottom, an overnight stay at Phantom Ranch or a guided trip is the safer option.
Helicopters, the Skywalk and the railway
Helicopter and plane tours fly over the canyon from Las Vegas and Tusayan. They are not cheap, but they give you a perspective the rim cannot. The Skywalk at Grand Canyon West is a glass bridge that juts out over the edge, and works best as a day trip from Las Vegas.
The Grand Canyon Railway runs from Williams to the village on the South Rim, a good alternative if you want to avoid parking in peak season.
Book experiences: See tours and activities at the Grand Canyon
Book experiences: See Grand Canyon day trips from Las Vegas
Where to stay for the Grand Canyon
The lodges inside the park are closest to the rim and book up early. Just outside the south entrance, Tusayan has several hotels, and Flagstaff is a good alternative with restaurants and breweries.
El Tovar
The historic lodge sits a few steps from the edge. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
El Tovar: dinner with a view of the canyon
El Tovar sits right on the South Rim and is the classic choice. Step outside and you are at the edge, and you do not need to drive anywhere for sunrise.
The lodge dates from the early 1900s, with timber, a fireplace and a popular dining room, so book a table early.
Book your stay: See rooms at El Tovar
Maswik Lodge: simple and central
Maswik Lodge is inside the park, a short walk from the rim and the shuttle buses. A practical choice if you want to stay in the park without paying for the very best location.
Book your stay: See rooms at Maswik Lodge
The Grand Hotel
Timber and a fireplace in Tusayan, just outside the park. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
The Grand Hotel at the Grand Canyon: just outside the south entrance
The hotel in Tusayan is a few minutes from the park entrance and visitor centre, with an indoor pool and plenty of space after a long day in the heat.
Book your stay: See rooms at The Grand Hotel at the Grand Canyon
Little America Flagstaff: a base for the whole region
From Flagstaff it is around an hour and a half to the South Rim, and about the same to Sedona and Route 66. Little America sits in pine forest on the edge of town.
Book your stay: See rooms at Little America Flagstaff
When is the best time to visit the Grand Canyon?
Spring and autumn are best, with comfortable temperatures for walking the rim and hiking below it. Summer is peak season with big crowds, and it can get dangerously hot inside the canyon. In winter there may be snow on the rim, which means fewer visitors and beautiful photos, but the North Rim is closed.
When should you book?
Lodges inside the park: as early as possible, ideally several months ahead.
Tusayan and Flagstaff: a few weeks ahead, earlier for the summer holidays.
Helicopter tours and the Skywalk: a few days ahead, earlier in peak season.
Frequently asked questions about the Grand Canyon
Where should I stay when visiting the Grand Canyon?
Stay inside the park on the South Rim if you want sunrise and sunset at the edge. El Tovar and Maswik Lodge are in the village. Tusayan, just outside the south entrance, and Flagstaff, around an hour and a half away, are good alternatives.
How far is the Grand Canyon from Las Vegas?
The South Rim is roughly four to five hours by car from Las Vegas. Grand Canyon West with the Skywalk is closer, about two to three hours away, but it is a different area from the national park.
Is the South Rim or the North Rim better?
The South Rim is best for most visitors. It is open all year and has the most viewpoints, hotels and shuttles. The North Rim is quieter and higher, but closes in winter and is a long drive from the rest of the park.
Can you hike to the Colorado River and back in a day?
It is not recommended, especially in summer. The climb out is long and hot. Hike part of the way down and turn back, or plan an overnight stay at the bottom with the right permits.
How many days do you need at the Grand Canyon?
Two nights is a good starting point. That gives you sunset, sunrise, a hike below the rim and Desert View without rushing.