Experiences
Alaska holidays: cruises, glaciers, Denali and where to stay
A glacier calves into the fjord, a whale surfaces by the boat, and Denali rises above the forest. How to experience Alaska, by sea and on land.
There is a crack like a cannon shot, and a slab of the glacier crashes into the fjord. The wave rolls towards the boat, the ice chunks clink, and a couple of minutes later all is quiet again. A seal watches you from an ice floe.
Alaska is the largest state in the US and some of the wildest country you can travel to there. Much will feel familiar from Scandinavia: fjords, glaciers and the midnight sun. But the scale is different. The mountains are higher, the glaciers bigger and the bears more common.
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How to do it
An Inside Passage cruise is the easiest way to see the coast, often from Seattle or Vancouver with stops in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway.
Fly into Anchorage to see the interior. From there, road and rail run south to the Kenai Peninsula and north to Denali.
Combine the two: a one-way cruise with a few days on land before or after.
The season is short, roughly May to September. Much closes in winter.
The Inside Passage and the glaciers
The Inside Passage is a long chain of islands, sounds and fjords along south-east Alaska. From Juneau you can take a helicopter to a glacier, watch whales in the channel or walk by the Mendenhall Glacier. Many cruises also sail into Glacier Bay, where the glaciers meet the sea.
From Seward, south of Anchorage, day cruises head into Kenai Fjords National Park. There is a good chance of whales, sea lions and calving glaciers.
Where the ice meets the sea
Alaska's tidewater glaciers calve straight into the fjords. Photo: Peter Hansen / Unsplash
Denali and the train
Denali is the highest mountain in North America, and often hidden in cloud. Inside the national park you travel on park buses rather than your own car, scanning the tundra for grizzly bears, moose, caribou and Dall sheep.
The Alaska Railroad runs between Anchorage, Talkeetna and Denali, with big windows and dome cars. It is a relaxing way to see the landscape, and a welcome break from driving.
Book experiences: See tours and activities around Anchorage
Book experiences: See tours and activities in Juneau
Where to stay in Alaska
Anchorage is the natural starting point, Girdwood sits between city and mountains, and at Denali and Talkeetna you are right on the edge of the wilderness.
Alyeska Resort
The aerial tram takes you straight up the mountain. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Alyeska Resort: a mountain hotel south of Anchorage
Alyeska Resort is in Girdwood, around an hour's drive south of Anchorage, at the foot of the mountain. In summer, ride the tram up for views of glaciers and Turnagain Arm; in winter, go skiing.
Book your stay: See rooms at Alyeska Resort
Hotel Captain Cook: the Anchorage classic
Hotel Captain Cook is in the heart of downtown Anchorage and a good place to start or end your trip, with several restaurants and bars under one roof.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hotel Captain Cook
Denali Lodge
A short hop to the Denali National Park entrance. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Holland America Denali Lodge: at the park gates
The lodge is by Denali National Park, a short ride from the park buses. It is popular with travellers combining a cruise with time on land.
Book your stay: See rooms at Holland America Denali Lodge
Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge: views of Denali
In the small town of Talkeetna, the lodge sits on a rise looking towards the Alaska Range. On a clear day you can see Denali from the terrace.
Book your stay: See rooms at Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge
When is the best time to visit Alaska?
June, July and August bring long, light days and the most services open. May and September are quieter and often lovely, though some things may be closed. Winter is northern lights season in Fairbanks, but much of the coast and the national parks are out of reach.
When should you book?
Cruises: ideally a year ahead for the best choice of cabins.
Hotels near Denali: many months before summer.
Kenai Fjords boat trips and Juneau helicopter tours: a few weeks ahead.
Frequently asked questions about Alaska
Where should I stay in Alaska?
Stay in Anchorage, for example at Hotel Captain Cook, before and after your trip. Alyeska Resort in Girdwood offers mountains and glaciers close to the city, and Denali Lodge and Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge are near Denali.
Is a cruise the best way to see Alaska?
A cruise is the easiest way to see the coast and glaciers of the Inside Passage. To see Denali and the interior, add a few days on land.
When is the best time to visit Alaska?
June to August is peak season with long days and the most services open. May and September are quieter. Winter suits northern lights trips around Fairbanks.
Will I see bears in Alaska?
The chances are good, especially in Denali and on guided trips to places where bears fish for salmon in summer. Always keep your distance and follow your guide's advice.
Can you drive into Denali National Park?
Only a short way. Beyond that you travel on the park's own buses. Check how far the road is open, as sections can be closed.