Long-haul
Kenya safari: the Masai Mara, the river crossings and the lodges
Thousands of wildebeest gather on the riverbank and hesitate. Then the first one jumps and the rest follow. How to plan a Kenya safari, from Nairobi to the Masai Mara and Mount Kenya.
Thousands of wildebeest gather on the riverbank and hesitate. The crocodiles lie still in the brown water. Then the first one jumps, and suddenly the whole herd hurls itself into the Mara River in a cloud of dust and spray. It is one of the most dramatic wildlife spectacles on earth, and you can watch it from a jeep.
Kenya is the home of the safari. The word means journey in Swahili, and the Masai Mara is a short flight from Nairobi. Here are the places, seasons and lodges for a Kenya safari.
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How to plan a Kenya safari
Masai Mara: Kenya’s most famous reserve, the northern part of the Serengeti ecosystem, with the river crossings from roughly July to October.
Nairobi: the city has its own national park, and in the Karen district you can visit giraffes and an elephant orphanage.
Laikipia and Mount Kenya: higher, cooler and quieter, with private conservancies and views of Africa’s second highest mountain.
Amboseli: elephants with Kilimanjaro in the background, on the Tanzanian border.
Many people take a light aircraft from Nairobi to one of the Masai Mara airstrips. It takes under an hour, compared with five to six hours by road.
Book the experience: See safari tours in the Masai Mara
Where to stay on a Kenya safari
Combining Nairobi, the Masai Mara and perhaps Mount Kenya makes a varied trip of around a week.
Nairobi
Hemingways sits in the leafy Karen district.
Nairobi: Hemingways Nairobi
Karen is Nairobi’s leafy suburb, named after the author Karen Blixen, whose farm was here. Hemingways sits in this quiet area, with gardens, a spa and rooms with balconies.
From here it is a short drive to the Giraffe Centre and to Nairobi National Park, where you can see lions and rhinos with skyscrapers in the background.
Book your lodge: See rooms at Hemingways Nairobi
Masai Mara
The tents line a bend in the Mara River.
Masai Mara: Fairmont Mara Safari Club
The luxury tents line a bend in the Mara River, and from the deck you watch hippos in the water below. The lodge sits in a private area right next to the reserve.
After the game drive there is a pool and dinner under the stars, and at night you hear the bush through the canvas.
Book your lodge: See rooms at Fairmont Mara Safari Club
Balloon safari
Balloon flights over the Mara set off at sunrise.
The Mara Triangle: Mara Serena Safari Lodge
Mara Serena sits on a hill in the Mara Triangle, the western part of the reserve, with views over the plains and the river. The area sees fewer vehicles than the eastern side.
From here you can book a sunrise balloon flight, with breakfast on the savannah after landing. It is expensive, but many call it the highlight of the trip.
Book your lodge: See rooms at Mara Serena Safari Lodge
Mount Kenya: Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club
To finish somewhere cooler, Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club sits in the hills near Nanyuki with Mount Kenya behind it. The club has a long history, large gardens and rooms with fireplaces.
The surrounding conservancies have rhinos and chimpanzees, and the town sits almost exactly on the equator.
Book your lodge: See rooms at Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club
When is the best time for a Kenya safari?
July to October is high season in the Masai Mara, when the migration is on the Kenyan side and the river crossings can happen. It is also dry, and animals gather around water. January and February are also dry and good months for a safari, with fewer visitors.
The long rains, especially April and May, bring green landscapes and lower prices, but some camps close.
When should you book?
July to October: book six to twelve months ahead.
Balloon flight: book together with your lodge, places are limited.
Add a beach: Zanzibar and the Kenyan coast are short flights away.
Check entry requirements, visas and health advice for Kenya before you travel.
Kenya safari FAQ
When is the best time to visit the Masai Mara?
July to October is high season, when the Great Migration is in the Masai Mara and the river crossings can happen. January and February are also good, dry months with fewer visitors.
How long should I stay in the Masai Mara?
Three nights is a good minimum, giving you five or six game drives. Four or five nights increases your chances of seeing both a river crossing and leopards.
How do I get from Nairobi to the Masai Mara?
Most people fly by light aircraft from Wilson Airport in Nairobi, which takes under an hour. By road it takes five to six hours, partly on rough tracks.
Is a balloon safari worth it?
Many say it is the highlight of the trip. You lift off at sunrise, float low over the plains for about an hour and have breakfast on the savannah after landing. Book ahead, as places are limited.
Where should I stay on a Kenya safari?
Spend a night in Karen in Nairobi, for example at Hemingways, then three or four nights in the Masai Mara at Fairmont Mara Safari Club or Mara Serena. Finish at Mount Kenya if you have time.