Experiences
Maui and the Big Island: the Road to Hana, Haleakala and the volcanoes
Waterfalls tumble into the rainforest along the road to Hana, and on the Big Island lava glows in the crater. How to experience Hawaii's two most dramatic islands.
It is freezing and pitch dark at the top of Haleakala. You stand with a blanket around your shoulders, looking down on a sea of cloud. Then the sun breaks over the rim, and the crater below turns from black to red and orange.
Maui and the Big Island are the two islands of Hawaii with the most dramatic scenery. Maui brings rainforest, waterfalls and beaches. The Big Island brings live volcanoes, lava fields and some of the best stargazing on earth. With a short flight between them, you can see both in ten days.
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How to do it
Fly into Kahului on Maui and Kona or Hilo on the Big Island. Short flights link the islands.
Hire a car on both islands. Public transport is limited.
Reserve Haleakala sunrise and entry to popular parks in advance.
Always follow advice and closures in volcanic areas. Activity changes.
Maui: the Road to Hana and Haleakala
The Road to Hana winds along the north-east coast with hundreds of bends and many narrow one-lane bridges. The point is the stops: waterfalls, rainforest, the black sand beach at Waiʻānapanapa and the pools at ʻOheʻo in Haleakala National Park. Stay overnight in Hana rather than driving there and back in a day.
Sunrise on Haleakala requires a reservation to drive up in the early morning. In winter you can spot humpback whales from shore, and by boat you can snorkel at the half-sunken crater of Molokini.
The lava coast
Black lava meets the Pacific. Photo: Simon Hurry / Unsplash
The Big Island: volcanoes and stars
In Hawaii Volcanoes National Park you drive Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road down towards the sea, and walk through lava tubes. When Kilauea is active, you may see the glow from the crater at night. Check the park's updates.
Mauna Kea is one of the world's best places for stargazing. The summit requires four-wheel drive, but the visitor centre lower down often runs stargazing evenings. Near Kona you can snorkel with manta rays at night, and at Punaluʻu sea turtles rest on the black sand.
Book experiences: See tours and activities on Maui
Book experiences: See tours and activities on the Big Island
Where to stay on Maui and the Big Island
Consider two bases on each island: one by the beach and one close to nature.
Hana-Maui Resort
Calm and green in Hana. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Hana-Maui Resort: stay at the end of the road
Hana-Maui Resort is in the small town of Hana, the destination of the Road to Hana. You get the calm after the day-trippers have driven back, and the ʻOheʻo pools are close by the next morning.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hana-Maui Resort, a Destination by Hyatt Residence
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea: the beach on Maui
The Four Seasons at Wailea Beach is the base for beach life on Maui, with several pools and snorkelling close by.
Book your stay: See rooms at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea
Fairmont Orchid
A lagoon and palms on the Kohala Coast. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Fairmont Orchid: a resort on the Kohala Coast
Fairmont Orchid sits on the Big Island's sunny west coast, with a beach, a lagoon and petroglyphs nearby. A good base for manta rays and Mauna Kea.
Book your stay: See rooms at Fairmont Orchid
Kilauea Lodge: in the forest by the volcano
Kilauea Lodge is in Volcano village, a few minutes from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Known for its restaurant, and ideal for seeing the crater glow at night.
Book your stay: See rooms at Kilauea Lodge and Restaurant
When is the best time to go?
April, May, September and October bring good weather and fewer visitors. December to March is whale season. The summits of Haleakala and Mauna Kea are cold all year, so bring warm clothes.
When should you book?
Haleakala sunrise: reserve as early as possible.
Hotels in Hana and by the volcano: several weeks ahead, there are few rooms.
Manta ray snorkelling and helicopter flights: a few days ahead.
Frequently asked questions about Maui and the Big Island
Where should I stay on Maui?
Stay by Wailea Beach, for example at the Four Seasons, for the beach, and spend a night in Hana at Hana-Maui Resort for the Road to Hana.
Where should I stay on the Big Island?
Stay on the west coast, for example at Fairmont Orchid, for the beach and Mauna Kea, plus a night or two by the volcano at Kilauea Lodge.
How long does the Road to Hana take?
Allow a full day with stops. It is best to stay overnight in Hana rather than driving back the same day.
Do you need a reservation for Haleakala sunrise?
Yes, a reservation is required to drive in early in the morning for sunrise. Book it in advance.
Can you see lava on the Big Island?
It depends on Kilauea's activity. When the volcano is active, you can often see the glow from the crater at night. Check the status with Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.