Civita di Bagnoregio
Stay overnight in Civita di Bagnoregio: the dying town without the day-trippers
When the last day-tripper has crossed the bridge and the sunset turns the ravines red, Civita di Bagnoregio shows its best side. This is our guide to a night in the dying town, and the hotels in Civita, Bagnoregio and Orvieto.
In the middle of the day Civita di Bagnoregio can be packed. Coaches from Rome and Florence unload groups who cross the long footbridge, take photos, buy a bruschetta and head back. But as afternoon turns to evening, something happens. The bridge empties, the light turns warm, and the little town on the clifftop falls silent, as it has for centuries.
The best way to experience Civita is to stay. This is our guide to a night in the dying town, and where to stay.
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Why is Civita called the dying town?
Civita was founded more than 2,500 years ago by the Etruscans, one of the oldest peoples in Italy. The town sits on a hill of clay and tuff, a soft stone formed from volcanic ash. Over the centuries, earthquakes and erosion have eaten away the cliff piece by piece, and parts of the town have collapsed into the ravines. That is why it is called «la città che muore», the dying town. Today only a handful of people live in Civita year-round, and the only way in is the footbridge from Bagnoregio.
After dark
Once the day-trippers have gone, you can wander alone through the narrow stone lanes, past flower boxes, old doorways and the little church on the piazza. The view over the Valle dei Calanchi, the dramatic landscape of ravines and clay ridges around the town, is at its finest at sunset and sunrise. In the morning mist often fills the valley, and the town seems to float above the clouds.
Practical tips
Entry: There is an entry fee to cross the bridge into Civita. Check the current price locally.
The footbridge: The bridge is steep towards the end, so wear good shoes.
Parking: Park in Bagnoregio and walk or take the shuttle to the bridge.
Food: There are a few restaurants and wine bars in Civita, but the choice is limited in the evening.
Civita in the afternoon. Photo: Picolo
Where to stay
In Civita: inside the dying town
Corte della Maestà: boutique in Civita
Exclusive accommodation in historic buildings inside Civita, for those who want the town to themselves in the evening and morning.
Book your stay: See rooms at Corte della Maestà
In Bagnoregio: close to the bridge
Bagnoregio is the living town at the foot of the bridge, with cafés, restaurants and several places to stay. From here the bridge is a short walk.
Palazzo Contino: in Bagnoregio
Accommodation in Bagnoregio, a short walk from the footbridge and Civita.
Book your stay: See rooms at Palazzo Contino
In Orvieto: a short drive away
For more restaurants and a larger town, stay in Orvieto and drive or take the bus to Bagnoregio.
Palazzo Piccolomini: by Orvieto Cathedral
A hotel with a bar in a historic palazzo, close to Orvieto Cathedral.
Book your stay: See rooms at Palazzo Piccolomini
Combine with Orvieto and Lake Bolsena
Civita is a short drive from Orvieto, with its magnificent cathedral and underground caves. Just to the west lies Lake Bolsena, one of Europe’s largest volcanic lakes, with small beaches and fishing villages. Together they make a perfect weekend on the border of Lazio and Umbria.
A town with a history
Bagnoregio is the birthplace of Bonaventure, one of the best-known theologians and saints of the Middle Ages. The church on Civita’s piazza, San Donato, has medieval roots, and every summer the traditional donkey race, the Palio della Tonna, is held on the little square.
Getting to Civita
Driving is easiest. From Rome it takes around two hours, and from Orvieto just over half an hour. Without a car, take the train from Rome to Orvieto and a bus on to Bagnoregio. See also our day trips from Rome and car hire in Italy.
When to go
Spring and autumn bring pleasant temperatures and fewer people. In summer it is hot and busy at midday, making an overnight stay even more worthwhile. In winter, mist can make Civita almost mystical.
Frequently asked questions about staying in Civita di Bagnoregio
Can you stay overnight in Civita di Bagnoregio?
Yes, there are a few places to stay inside Civita, including Corte della Maestà. More are in Bagnoregio at the foot of the bridge.
When is the best time to visit Civita?
Early morning and late afternoon have the fewest people and the most beautiful light.
Does it cost money to visit Civita?
Yes, there is an entry fee to cross the bridge. The price may change, so check locally.
Can you combine Civita with Orvieto?
Yes, Orvieto is a short drive away, and the two pair perfectly on a day trip or weekend.