Copenhagen
Smørrebrød in Copenhagen: the best places, and how to eat it like a Dane
Herring with red onion, stjerneskud with prawns and an ice-cold schnapps on the side. Smørrebrød is the ultimate Danish lunch, and Copenhagen is the place to eat it. Here are the places we recommend, the classics to try and the rules worth knowing.
The waiter sets down a plate with three slices of rye bread, and none of them looks like a packed lunch. One is covered in pickled herring with red onion and capers, the second carries a tall pile of prawns, and on the third lies fried plaice under a spoonful of remoulade. Beside it stands an ice-cold glass of schnapps. Welcome to the Danish lunch.
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Short answer: where to eat smørrebrød in Copenhagen
The classic: Schønnemann, since 1877.
Modern and light: Aamanns 1921 or Selma.
With meat from its own butcher: Fleisch in the Meatpacking District.
Smørrebrød is lunch food, and many of the best places close before dinner. Book a table, especially at weekends.
Stay within walking distance
By City Hall Square: Boutique Hotel Danmark, with a roof terrace. See rooms at Boutique Hotel Danmark
In the Latin Quarter: Boutique Hotel SP34. See rooms at Hotel SP34
What is smørrebrød?
Smørrebrød are open sandwiches on dense, dark rye bread, each topped with what is really a dish in its own right. The tradition goes back to the workers’ lunch of the 19th century, but in restaurants it has become an art form, with every slice built up layer by layer.
How to eat smørrebrød
Start with herring: The traditional order is herring first, then other fish, then meat and finally cheese.
Use a knife and fork: Smørrebrød is not eaten with your hands.
Order two or three pieces: Each one is a small meal.
Drink beer and schnapps: A lager and a cold aquavit belong on the table, at least on Fridays.
The classics to try
Stjerneskud: fried and steamed plaice with prawns, mayonnaise and asparagus.
Dyrlægens natmad: liver pâté, salt beef and aspic, named after the vet said to have eaten it after a night shift.
Roast beef: with remoulade, crispy onions and horseradish.
Røget ål: smoked eel with scrambled egg, an expensive but much-loved classic.
Smørrebrød in Copenhagen. Photo: Anastasiya D / Unsplash
The places we recommend
Schønnemann: lunch since 1877
Under low ceilings on Hauser Plads, Schønnemann has served smørrebrød for nearly 150 years. The menu is long, the rye bread is baked in house and the schnapps selection is one of the city’s biggest. The kitchen closes in the afternoon, so arrive early or book.
Good to know: Hauser Plads 16.
Aamanns 1921: the modern open sandwich
At Aamanns, smørrebrød is lighter and more modern, with seasonal produce and house-made toppings. A good choice if the classic places feel a little heavy.
Good to know: In the centre, near Strøget.
Selma: a Swedish chef and Danish traditions
Swedish chef Magnus Pettersson makes modern smørrebrød with a playfulness that has earned Selma a place in the Michelin Guide. It is small, so book well ahead.
Good to know: Rømersgade 20, near Torvehallerne.
Fleisch: straight from the butcher’s counter
In the Meatpacking District, the butcher and restaurant Fleisch serves smørrebrød at lunch, with meat from its own counter alongside herring and smoked fish.
Good to know: Slagterboderne 7. Read more in our guide to the Meatpacking District.
Where to stay
Boutique Hotel Danmark: by City Hall Square
From the roof terrace you look straight down on City Hall Square, and Schønnemann is a short stroll away.
Book your stay: See rooms at Boutique Hotel Danmark
Boutique Hotel SP34: in the Latin Quarter
In the heart of the Latin Quarter, within walking distance of Aamanns, Selma and Torvehallerne.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hotel SP34
Hotel Sanders: by Kongens Nytorv
A small, elegant hotel by the Royal Danish Theatre, perfect after a long lunch.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hotel Sanders
Frequently asked questions about smørrebrød in Copenhagen
Where is the best smørrebrød in Copenhagen?
Schønnemann is the classic, while Aamanns 1921 and Selma lead the modern style.
When do Danes eat smørrebrød?
At lunch. Many classic places only open during the day.
How many pieces should you order?
Two to three per person is enough for most people.
What do you drink with smørrebrød?
Traditionally beer and schnapps, ideally a cold aquavit.