Experiences
Things to do in New Orleans: jazz, beignets and the French Quarter
A trumpet plays from an open door on Frenchmen Street, sugar dusts your beignet and the streetcar clanks beneath the oaks. How to experience New Orleans.
It is warm and humid, and from an open door on Frenchmen Street a trumpet spills out into the night. People stand on the pavement with a drink in hand, dancing. Further down the street a brass band plays for nobody but itself. New Orleans feels more Caribbean and French than the rest of America.
The city on the Mississippi has its own music, its own food and its own culture, shaped by French, Spanish, African and Caribbean history. It is a city for walking, eating and listening.
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How to do it
Stay in or near the French Quarter, and walk. The streetcar takes you to the Garden District.
Hear live jazz on Frenchmen Street rather than Bourbon Street.
Have breakfast early at Café du Monde to beat the queue.
Plan around the festivals: Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest bring a party, but also high prices.
The French Quarter and the jazz
The French Quarter is the neighbourhood of wrought-iron balconies, galleries and courtyards. Start at Jackson Square and the cathedral, stroll along Royal Street with its antique shops, and see Bourbon Street once, ideally early in the evening.
For music, head to Frenchmen Street in the Marigny, where the clubs sit side by side. Preservation Hall is a small hall dedicated to traditional New Orleans jazz.
The streetcar
The historic streetcars run through the city. Photo: philippe collard / Unsplash
The food
New Orleans is one of America's great food cities. Try gumbo, jambalaya and a po'boy, and in spring crawfish. Beignets dusted with icing sugar and café au lait at Café du Monde are a classic. Ride the streetcar along St. Charles Avenue to the Garden District, with oak-lined streets and grand old houses.
Beyond the city
A boat trip into the bayou brings alligators, herons and hanging moss. Many tours pick you up in the city.
Book experiences: See jazz, food and swamp tours in New Orleans
Where to stay in New Orleans
Stay in the French Quarter and you can walk almost everywhere. The Marigny is quieter and close to the music on Frenchmen Street.
Hotel Monteleone
A classic French Quarter hotel. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Hotel Monteleone: the Carousel Bar in the French Quarter
Hotel Monteleone is on Royal Street in the French Quarter and famous for the Carousel Bar, which slowly turns. A rooftop pool and spa offer a break from the heat.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hotel Monteleone, New Orleans
The Roosevelt
A long gilded lobby near Canal Street. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
The Roosevelt New Orleans: glamour by Canal Street
The Roosevelt is just off Canal Street and the French Quarter, with a long gilded lobby and several restaurants and bars.
Book your stay: See rooms at The Roosevelt New Orleans, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel
The Windsor Court: quiet luxury
Windsor Court is in the business district near Canal Street, with a spa and a calmer feel than the hotels in the French Quarter.
Book your stay: See rooms at The Windsor Court
Hotel Peter and Paul: close to Frenchmen Street
Hotel Peter and Paul is in the Marigny in a former church and school building, a short walk from the jazz clubs on Frenchmen Street.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hotel Peter and Paul
When is the best time to visit New Orleans?
March to May is best, with pleasant temperatures and festivals. Autumn is good too. Summer is very hot and humid, and hurricane season runs from June to November. Mardi Gras falls in February or March, depending on the date of Easter.
When should you book?
Hotels for Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest: many months ahead.
Well-known restaurants: a few weeks ahead.
Swamp tours: a few days ahead.
Frequently asked questions about New Orleans
Where should I stay in New Orleans?
Stay in the French Quarter, for example at Hotel Monteleone, to walk almost everywhere. The Roosevelt is near Canal Street, and Hotel Peter and Paul in the Marigny is close to the jazz on Frenchmen Street.
Where is the best jazz in New Orleans?
Frenchmen Street in the Marigny has clubs side by side, and Preservation Hall is known for traditional jazz.
When is Mardi Gras in New Orleans?
Mardi Gras falls in February or early March, with the date set by Easter. The parades run in the weeks before.
What should you eat in New Orleans?
Gumbo, jambalaya, a po'boy, crawfish in spring and beignets with café au lait.
Is New Orleans safe?
Stick to busy areas, especially in the evening, and take a taxi late at night. Ask your hotel for advice.