Experiences
Pacific Coast Highway and Big Sur: a California coast road trip
The road clings to the cliffs, the Pacific crashes below and fog rolls in over the hills. How to drive Highway 1, and where to stay in Big Sur.
The fog lifts, and there it is: Bixby Creek Bridge, a white concrete arch over a gorge where the Pacific rolls in. You pull into a lay-by alongside everyone else, and nobody says a word. That is Big Sur, again and again.
Highway 1 runs along almost the entire California coast. The most famous section is Big Sur, between Carmel and San Simeon, where the mountains plunge straight into the ocean and the road is cut into the cliffs. Drive it between San Francisco and Los Angeles, and take your time.
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How to do it
Allow three to five days between San Francisco and Los Angeles if you want to stop along the way.
Drive south. The ocean is then on your side of the road and the viewpoints are easier to pull into.
Check road reports before you set off. Landslides sometimes close parts of the road in Big Sur.
Fill up in Monterey or Carmel. There are few petrol stations and poor mobile coverage in Big Sur.
Stops you should not skip
Monterey: the aquarium and Cannery Row on the bay.
17-Mile Drive and Carmel-by-the-Sea: golf courses, cypress trees and fairy-tale cottages.
Bixby Creek Bridge: the classic shot, best from the lay-by on the north side.
Pfeiffer Beach: a beach with purple-tinged sand and a rock arch where the sun sets.
McWay Falls: a waterfall dropping onto a beach, a short walk from the car park in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
San Simeon: Hearst Castle and the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas.
The Big Sur coast
The mountains plunge straight into the Pacific. Photo: Luke Mitchell / Unsplash
How to get the most out of the drive
Big Sur has few restaurants and no towns, so spend at least one night in the middle of the stretch. You get evening light over the ocean and silence once the day-trippers have moved on. Mornings are often foggy, afternoons clearer.
Book experiences: See tours and activities in Monterey and Carmel
Book experiences: See tours and activities in San Francisco
Where to stay along Highway 1
Big Sur has only a handful of hotels, but they are special. Monterey and Carmel offer more choice and work well for the first or last night.
Post Ranch Inn
High above the ocean in Big Sur. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Post Ranch Inn: on the edge of the continent
Post Ranch Inn sits high on the cliffs above the Pacific, with rooms built into the landscape. You come here to do nothing at all: watch the ocean, the fog and the stars. Breakfast is included.
Book your stay: See rooms at Post Ranch Inn
Alila Ventana
Redwood forest and ocean views. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Alila Ventana Big Sur: forest and ocean
Ventana sits among the redwoods in Big Sur, close to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, with two outdoor pools and a terrace on every room. A calm base in the middle of the most beautiful stretch.
Book your stay: See rooms at Alila Ventana Big Sur
Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa: on Cannery Row
Monterey Plaza sits right over the water on Cannery Row, a short walk from the aquarium. From the hotel you look straight out over Monterey Bay.
Book your stay: See rooms at Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa
L'Auberge Carmel: a small hotel in Carmel
L'Auberge Carmel is in the little town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, a short walk from the beach and the shops. Breakfast is included, and the feel is European and intimate.
Book your stay: See rooms at L Auberge Carmel
When is the best time to drive Highway 1?
September and October are often best, with clear air and less fog. Spring is green with wildflowers on the hills. Summer is popular, but fog often blankets the coast in the morning. Winter brings fewer visitors but a greater risk of landslides and closed roads.
When should you book?
Hotels in Big Sur: several months ahead, there are few rooms.
Monterey and Carmel: a few weeks ahead, earlier for weekends.
Hearst Castle: book a tour in advance.
Frequently asked questions about the Pacific Coast Highway and Big Sur
Where should I stay in Big Sur?
Stay in the middle of Big Sur to enjoy evening and morning by the ocean, for example at Post Ranch Inn or Alila Ventana. Monterey and Carmel offer more choice and suit the nights before or after Big Sur.
How long do you need for the Pacific Coast Highway?
Allow three to five days between San Francisco and Los Angeles if you want to stop along the way. The Big Sur section can be driven in a day, but deserves at least one night.
Is Highway 1 in Big Sur open?
Landslides sometimes close parts of Highway 1 in Big Sur, occasionally for long periods. Check Caltrans road reports before you drive.
Should you drive Highway 1 north or south?
Southbound is the most popular. The ocean is on your side of the road, and the viewpoints are easier to pull into.
What are the best stops in Big Sur?
Bixby Creek Bridge, Pfeiffer Beach, McWay Falls and the viewpoints along the road are the best known. Monterey and Carmel lie just north of Big Sur.