Belgrade travel guide
One of Europe's oldest capitals is back in the spotlight, with a hilltop fortress, generous food and nightlife that keeps going until the last guest leaves.
The view from Kalemegdan
From the fortress walls you look out over the meeting of the Sava and the Danube.
Things to do in Belgrade: start at the fortress
The list of things to do in Belgrade begins on a hill above the rivers. Belgrade Fortress has watched over the city since the Celts built the first stronghold here around 279 BC, and Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and Habsburgs have all held it since. Entry to the fortress grounds is free, and the views over the Sava and the Danube are among the best in the Balkans.
Around the walls lies Kalemegdan Park, with shady paths, museums and the city zoo. Come in the late afternoon and stay for sunset, when half of Belgrade seems to gather on the ramparts. Read the full story in Belgrade: Europe's forgotten capital.
Belgrade Fortress
The fortress has had many rulers over more than two thousand years.
Knez Mihailova and Republic Square
From the fortress, the pedestrian street Knez Mihailova leads into the heart of Stari Grad, the old town. It is Belgrade's best known shopping street, lined with grand old buildings, shops and cafés where you can sit and watch the city go by.
The street ends near Republic Square, home to the National Theatre and the National Museum. If this is your first visit, Stari Grad is the most convenient area to stay, with museums, bars and restaurants all within walking distance. The city centre is compact and best explored on foot or with a local guide.
Knez Mihailova
Belgrade's main pedestrian street links the fortress with the rest of the old town.
Eat in Skadarlija, the bohemian quarter
Just below Republic Square, the cobbled street of Skadarlija has been the city's bohemian quarter for generations, once favoured by artists, writers and musicians. Today it is lined with kafanas, traditional taverns where bands play Serbian music at your table. Some have been open for well over a century, including Dva Jelena and Tri Šešira.
Serbian cooking means grilled meat, fresh bread and heroic portions, and the rivers bring fish to the menu too. Round off with rakija, the national fruit brandy, and taste a few varieties until you find your favourite.
Skadarlija
Tip the band in a kafana and they will happily play your favourite song.
Museums and memorials
Belgrade has more museums than most visitors expect. The Museum of Contemporary Art, by the river in New Belgrade, holds thousands of works by Serbian and international artists, and the Nikola Tesla Museum displays original inventions, drawings and models from the famous inventor, whose family was Serbian.
The city also carries the memory of the wars of the 1990s. The ruined building of Radio Television of Serbia by Tašmajdan Park, hit in the NATO bombing of 1999, is preserved as a memorial and one of the most powerful places in the capital.
Saint Sava
One of the largest Orthodox churches in the world dominates the skyline south of the centre.
Museum of Contemporary Art
Serbian and international art in a modernist building on the river.
Belgrade nightlife and the river splavs
Belgrade regularly appears near the top of lists of Europe's best party cities. Most bars in the centre close between midnight and 2am, but many nightclubs stay open much later. From around April to September, the action moves onto the water, with splavs, floating clubs moored along the Sava. Each tends to focus on one style of music, so do a little research and book a table if needed.
Prefer something calmer? Try a cocktail bar in the old town, the craft beer at Samo Pivo, or the cluster of bars around Cetinjska 15, a former factory area with everything from blues to wine bars. Discover more of the country in our Serbia travel guide.
When is the best time to visit Belgrade?
The best time to visit Belgrade is from April to June or in September and October, when the weather is warm enough for long days outdoors without the peak summer heat. The river splavs are open from spring to early autumn. July and August are hot, and winter is cold but atmospheric, ideal for long dinners in the kafanas.
Belgrade: frequently asked questions
Where is Belgrade?
Belgrade is the capital of Serbia, in south-eastern Europe. It lies where the Sava river flows into the Danube, on the edge of the Pannonian Plain. From London, direct flights take around two and a half to three hours, which makes it an easy choice for a long weekend in the Balkans.
How many days do you need in Belgrade?
Two to three days are enough to see the main sights of Belgrade. That gives you time for the fortress and Kalemegdan Park, Knez Mihailova, Skadarlija and a museum or two, plus at least one long night out. With an extra day, you can take a trip to Novi Sad or along the Danube.
Is Belgrade good for nightlife?
Yes, Belgrade is one of the best nightlife cities in Europe. Many clubs stay open until the early hours, and in summer the floating splavs on the Sava draw crowds with everything from rock to techno. There are also plenty of cocktail bars, kafanas with live music and craft beer bars for a slower evening.
What is the best area to stay in Belgrade?
For a first visit, Stari Grad, the old town, is the best area to stay in Belgrade. You will be within walking distance of the fortress, Knez Mihailova, Skadarlija and many restaurants. International hotel chains are also found across the river in New Belgrade, which suits business travellers and those with a car.