Best hotels in Bali: where to stay, from Ubud to Uluwatu

Arriving over a lotus pond

Four Seasons sits beside the Ayung River just outside Ubud, and you arrive across a footbridge onto a roof covered by a lotus pond. Below it, the resort steps down towards the water, with villas and suites tucked into the jungle and a pool beside the river.

It gets our vote as the design pick and one of the most dramatically set hotels in Asia. It is expensive and there are many steps, so it does not suit those with limited mobility. Evenings are hushed, and central Ubud is a short drive away.

Rice fields by the river

Mandapa is further up the same Ayung valley, with its own rice fields tended by farmers from the village. Villas have private pools, and the restaurant in a bamboo dome above the river is one of the island's best known.

It works best for couples and travellers who want peace, privacy and a personal butler. The beach is far away and most guests stay put. Ubud is a quarter of an hour by car.

Yoga and a walk into town

COMO Uma Ubud lies just west of the centre, overlooking a river valley, with a pool that seems to pour over its edge. There is daily yoga and a spa known for Balinese treatments, and Ubud's market and palace are a walk or short taxi ride away.

It is our pick for a first stay in Ubud: calm, but close enough to eat out every night. Rooms are simple and light, and the best have their own pool. The Campuhan Ridge walk, a path along grassy hills, starts nearby.

Suites facing the sea

The Legian sits right on the beach in Seminyak, and every room is a suite with a balcony facing the ocean. It is one of the area's original luxury hotels, with a calm pool leading down to the sand and a beach path outside.

It is made for couples and families who want Seminyak's atmosphere with a classic hotel to return to. The sea here has waves, so swimming can be challenging. Seminyak's restaurants are minutes away, and the beach path is lovely early in the morning, before the heat.

Modern and calm by the sea

Alila Seminyak sits on the beach a little north of the centre, with modern architecture, several pools and a rooftop pool with ocean views. Rooms are bright and spacious, and many look out to sea.

It is ideal for travellers who want Seminyak with a little more calm than the most central hotels. It is a large hotel, and the mood is more contemporary resort than Balinese.

A lift down the cliff

Bulgari sits on top of a high cliff in Uluwatu, with villas of stone and wood and a pool on the edge of the drop. An inclined lift takes you down to a small private beach at the foot of the cliff.

It is right for couples who want peace, luxury and views over the Indian Ocean. It is very expensive and secluded, so most guests stay on site. Waves at the beach are not always good for swimming.

The cabana over the edge

Alila Villas is built of stone and bamboo on the Uluwatu cliffs, and its most famous feature is an open cabana jutting out over the edge. Villas have private pools, and the low, clean-lined architecture frames the wide ocean.

It earns our romantic pick, for the sunsets alone. It is far from everything, so you will need a car for restaurants and beaches beyond the hotel. Uluwatu Temple, with its kecak dance at sunset, performed by a chanting chorus of men, is a short drive away.

A lagoon for the children

St. Regis sits on the beach in Nusa Dua, where the reef keeps the waves away and the sea is calm. The resort has a large sand-bottomed lagoon pool, a kids' club and villas with private pools.

It is our family pick: safe swimming, plenty of space and service that works. Nusa Dua is a gated resort area with little local life, so you will need to drive to experience the rest of Bali.