Mexico
Cenotes and Chichén Itzá: swimming in the Maya underworld
Crystal-clear pools in caves beneath the jungle, and a pyramid that casts a shadow shaped like a serpent. The Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico has some of the most beautiful swimming spots on Earth and one of the greatest Maya cities. Here are the cenotes, the ruins and the hotels we recommend.
20 October 20269 min
Picolo Editorial
The steps down are slick with moisture, and the air grows cooler with every one. Then the cave opens up: a round pool of blue-green water, with vines hanging from a hole in the roof twenty metres above. To the Maya, cenotes were sacred, gateways to the underworld. To you, they will be the best swim of your life.
In short: cenotes and Chichén Itzá
Cenotes are natural sinkholes in the limestone of the Yucatán Peninsula, filled with clear fresh water. There are thousands of them. Chichén Itzá, one of the greatest Maya cities, stands among them and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Spend a night next to the ruins and you will be inside before the tour buses arrive.
Where to stay
By the ruins: Hacienda Chichen Resort & Yaxkin Spa, an old hacienda beside Chichén Itzá. Check availability and prices at Hacienda Chichen
In colonial Valladolid: Le Muuch Hotel, with a pool and garden. Check availability and prices at Le Muuch Hotel
What is a cenote?
The Yucatán Peninsula is a huge slab of limestone with no rivers on the surface. Rainwater seeps down and, over millions of years, has carved a network of underground rivers and caves. Where the roof has collapsed, cenotes have formed: open pools, semi-open caves and fully enclosed caverns with only a shaft of light.
Chichén Itzá: the Maya city
In the middle of the jungle rises El Castillo, the pyramid dedicated to Kukulcán, the feathered serpent god. Around the spring and autumn equinoxes, the edge of the staircase casts a shadow that looks like a serpent crawling down the pyramid. You can no longer climb it, but the site, with its ball court, the Temple of the Thousand Columns and the Sacred Cenote, fills half a day. Arrive at opening time.
The best cenotes nearby
Ik Kil: a deep, round pool with vines trailing from the rim, a few kilometres from Chichén Itzá. Popular, so arrive early.
Suytun: a cave with a stone platform in the water and a beam of light from the roof around midday, just outside Valladolid.
Zací: a large, semi-open cenote in the middle of Valladolid, easy to combine with a stroll round town.
Valladolid: the colonial town
Valladolid is a relaxed colonial town with colourful houses, a large cathedral and good, affordable restaurants. It is around 45 minutes from Chichén Itzá and a good base for the area.
Good to know
Shower before you swim: Sunscreen and insect repellent damage the water, and many cenotes ask you to shower first.
Bring cash: Many cenotes only take cash at the entrance.
Avoid the big day trips: Tour buses from Cancún reach Chichén Itzá around midday.
Where to stay
Hacienda Chichen Resort & Yaxkin Spa: by the ruins
An old hacienda with a spa and gardens beside Chichén Itzá.
Le Muuch Hotel: in Valladolid
A hotel with a pool and garden, close to the centre and the cenotes around town.
Getting there
Chichén Itzá is around two and a half hours by car from Cancún, and about the same from Tulum. A hire car gives you the most freedom to visit the cenotes.
Planning a honeymoon? Our Mexico honeymoon guide combines the cenotes and Maya ruins with a week on the Riviera Maya, with six hotels for couples.
Frequently asked questions about cenotes and Chichén Itzá
What is a cenote?
A natural sinkhole in the limestone of the Yucatán Peninsula, filled with clear fresh water. Many are open for swimming.
Can you climb the pyramid at Chichén Itzá?
No, climbing El Castillo is no longer allowed.
Where should you stay to visit Chichén Itzá?
Next to the ruins to be first in, or in Valladolid, around 45 minutes away.
How many cenotes are there in Yucatán?
There are thousands, but only some are open for swimming.
Enjoy the cenotes
Picolo Editorial