Best hotels in Bangkok: where to stay, from the river to the Skytrain

The legend on the river

Mandarin Oriental opened in 1876 and is one of the oldest hotels in Asia. Writers have stayed in its original wing for generations, and the suites there carry their names. The riverside terrace is the place to watch the boats and lights at dusk.

It is our pick for a first visit: history, service and the river right outside, with the hotel's own boat across to its spa and restaurants on the far bank. It is expensive, and the newer wing has less charm than the old. Afternoon tea in the Authors' Lounge is a tradition that has outlasted every trend.

A river view from every room

The Peninsula stands on the west bank of the river, and because it is built in a fan shape, almost every room looks across the water to the skyline opposite. A hotel boat crosses the river all day, linking to the Skytrain and to Mandarin Oriental.

This is our family pick: large rooms, a big garden pool and calm on the quieter side of the river. You depend on the boat to get around, but it runs often. At night the view of the lights on the east bank is one of the best in Bangkok.

Every room facing the water

Capella sits on the river just south of Mandarin Oriental, with low-rise buildings and every room and villa facing the water. It is new and calm, with a pool along the riverbank and a restaurant that has drawn a lot of attention.

It gets our vote as the romantic pick, for couples who want the best of the river in a modern, intimate hotel. Rooms are large, with tubs by the window and terraces right above the water. It is very expensive, and the surrounding streets are quiet at night.

Art and gardens by the water

Four Seasons also lines the river, built around gardens and water features, with a lot of art in its public spaces and a big pool under the trees. Rooms are large and light, and its restaurants are among the city's best.

It is a good fit for travellers who want a contemporary luxury hotel with space and greenery. It is a little south of the busiest piers, so you will use the hotel boat or a taxi to reach the temples. The Sunday brunch is popular with residents, so book ahead.

Art Deco and Thai boxing on the river

The Siam sits on the river in Dusit, a small hotel filled with antiques and Art Deco details from the 1930s. Its villas have private pools, and it even has its own ring for muay thai, Thai boxing, where you can train with an instructor.

It works best for couples and travellers who want calm and character near the temples. It is a long way from the Skytrain and the shopping districts, but the hotel boat takes you wherever you want on the river. The cookery school is a good way to spend a rainy afternoon.

Gardens in Sathorn

The Sukhothai sits in Sathorn in low buildings around reflecting pools and gardens dotted with brick stupas. It is one of the calmest hotels in the city, a hidden corner in the middle of the business district.

It is made for travellers who want quiet, excellent food and a short walk to Lumpini Park. The nearest station is a few minutes away on foot, and in the heat many take a taxi. The rooms are classic rather than cutting-edge, and the spa is known for its Thai massage.

The tower that greets you

Rosewood stands in Ploenchit, beside the Skytrain, in a tall tower shaped like a wai, the Thai greeting made with palms pressed together. Rooms are large and modern, and several have their own plunge pool by the window.

It takes our design pick and suits travellers who want to be in the middle of the city with restaurants and malls all around. It is an urban hotel without a big garden, so you get views rather than greenery. The bar on the upper floors is a calmer alternative to the city's famous rooftops.

A leafy street in the centre

Kimpton Maa-Lai sits on Langsuan, a quiet street between Lumpini Park and the Skytrain, with bright rooms, plenty of greenery and a rooftop bar over the park. Rooms are spacious, and many have their own kitchen.

It is ideal for families and longer stays, since the rooms work like small apartments. It is modern and relaxed with good service, but has less history than the riverside hotels. Lumpini Park is close, full of joggers and tai chi groups at dawn.

Colonial style and a rooftop at a fair price

Hotel Muse is also on Langsuan, decorated in the style of early twentieth-century Bangkok with dark wood, brass and old photographs. Its rooftop bar looks out over the city, and the Skytrain is a few minutes away on foot.

It earns our value pick and suits couples and friends who want character and location without luxury prices. Rooms are not large, and the rooftop gets busy at weekends.