Prague
Prague in December: frost on Charles Bridge, carp in the street and the best weekends to go
December is one of the most beautiful months in Prague, and one of the busiest. Here is what the weather is like, how Czechs celebrate Christmas, what is open between Christmas Eve and New Year and which weekends to choose.
7 November 20269 min
Picolo Editorial
At nine in the morning there is frost on the statues of Charles Bridge, and the river below is steaming in the cold. By four in the afternoon it is dark, the lights are on in the Old Town and the smell of mulled wine drifts from Old Town Square. December in Prague is short days, long evenings and a city that celebrates Christmas in its own way.
In short: Prague in December
Weather: around freezing by day and colder at night, dark before 4.30pm.
Christmas markets: Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square from 28 November 2026 to 6 January 2027.
St Nicholas Eve: 5 December, with Mikuláš, angels and devils in the Old Town.
Christmas Eve: 24 December is the main celebration, and many places close early.
Our first choice: Check availability and prices at Four Seasons Hotel Prague
The weather in December
December is one of the coldest months in Prague. Daytime temperatures usually hover around freezing, nights are colder, and the sky is often grey. Snow comes some years and not others, so do not plan a trip around it. The sun sets before half past four, which means the lights and the markets are at their best from late afternoon. Pack layers, gloves and shoes that grip on frozen cobbles, and check the forecast from the Czech Hydrometeorological Institute before you go.
The Christmas markets
The two big markets, on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square, run from 28 November 2026 to 6 January 2027, daily from 10am to 10pm. The tree on Old Town Square has a light show on the hour from 4.30pm to 9.30pm. Smaller markets on Náměstí Míru and Republic Square open earlier and close on Christmas Eve. All the dates and a route for your first evening are in our guide to the Prague Christmas markets.
How Czechs celebrate Christmas
On the evening of 5 December, St Nicholas Eve, people dressed as Mikuláš, an angel and a devil walk through the Old Town. Children recite a poem or sing a song and are given sweets, while the devil rattles his chain at those who have misbehaved.
In the week before Christmas, live carp are sold from large water tanks on street corners. Fried carp with potato salad is the traditional Christmas Eve dinner, and some families keep the fish alive in the bath until the day itself.
The main celebration is on Christmas Eve, 24 December, when presents are opened after dinner. Many shops and restaurants close early that afternoon, and the city becomes noticeably quieter.
What is open over Christmas and New Year
The big markets on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square stay open through Christmas and New Year. Museums, shops and restaurants often have shorter hours on 24 to 26 December, so book dinner in advance and check opening times before you set off. New Year’s Eve brings crowds to the Old Town, but there is no official fireworks display in the centre. Read more in our guide to New Year’s Eve in Prague.
Ventana Hotel Prague
Ventana Hotel on Celetná, a minute from the Christmas tree on Old Town Square. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Where to stay in December
In December, choose a hotel you can walk back to after the last light show on Old Town Square. Ventana, on Celetná, is a minute from the tree, and the Four Seasons is on the river by Charles Bridge. BoHo has a spa and pool, which is welcome on a cold day.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Ventana Hotel Prague
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Four Seasons Hotel Prague
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at BoHo Prague Hotel
For a full comparison of the districts, read where to stay in Prague.
Which weekend should you choose?
28 to 29 November: the opening weekend, with the first lighting of the tree on Saturday.
4 to 6 December: St Nicholas Eve on Saturday 5 December, and the markets in full swing.
11 to 13 December: often the best balance of atmosphere and crowds.
18 to 20 December: the busiest weekend, with carp sellers on the streets.
Picolo’s choice in Prague
Four Seasons: Charles Bridge in the frost
In December the Four Seasons is a warm retreat on the river. Step out after breakfast and you are on Charles Bridge while the frost is still on the statues. Old Town Square, with its tree and light show, is about eight minutes away on foot. When it gets dark before half past four, the riverside rooms look across to the castle lit up above the Vltava.
What Picolo would choose
What Picolo would choose: a midweek stay in the first half of December, at the Four Seasons for the river or Ventana for the Christmas markets. Come on 5 December if you want to see St Nicholas Eve.
Why: the markets are open and lit, and the crowds are smaller than in the week before Christmas. The trade-off: short days mean you should see the castle and Charles Bridge in the morning.
Frequently asked questions about Prague in December
What is the weather like in Prague in December?
Prague is cold in December, with daytime temperatures usually around freezing and colder nights. Snow is possible but not guaranteed, and many days are grey and damp. It gets dark before half past four in the afternoon. Pack a warm coat, a hat and shoes with a good grip for the cobbles, which can be slippery when frozen.
Is Prague worth visiting in December?
Yes, if you like Christmas markets, lights and short, cold days. The markets on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square run through the whole month, the churches hold concerts and the city looks its best after dark. The trade-off is the crowds, especially at weekends, so go midweek in early December if you can.
What is open in Prague on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day?
The big Christmas markets on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square stay open over Christmas, but many shops, museums and restaurants close early on 24 December, when Czechs celebrate. Some smaller markets close on Christmas Eve for the season. Book a table in advance if you want to eat out on 24 December, and check opening hours for museums.
When is the best time to visit Prague in December?
The first two weeks are the best balance. The Christmas markets on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square have opened, the tree is lit every evening and the crowds are smaller than in the week before Christmas. St Nicholas Eve on 5 December is a lovely evening to be in the Old Town, especially with children.
Sources
Market dates and the light show times come from Prague City Tourism and Prague Experience. The weather forecast is available from the Czech Hydrometeorological Institute. Hotel facilities and guest ratings come from Hotels.com, last checked on 7 November 2026. The comparisons and picks are Picolo’s own.
This page contains affiliate links. If you book through them, Picolo earns a commission at no extra cost to you. Our picks are made independently by our editors.
Have a nice trip to Prague
Picolo Editorial