Civita di Bagnoregio, the dying city
A medieval village on a crumbling pinnacle of rock, reached only on foot across a long bridge. Go and see it while you can.
The bridge to Civita
The only way into Civita di Bagnoregio is on foot, across a long bridge over the valley.
Civita di Bagnoregio: a village on the edge
Civita di Bagnoregio is one of the most striking sights in central Italy. The tiny village sits on top of a pinnacle of soft volcanic rock above the Tiber valley, and the land around it has been crumbling away for centuries. Italians call it la città che muore, the dying city.
Despite the name, it is very much alive. A handful of permanent residents live here, and the narrow lanes have cafés, small restaurants and flower-filled doorways. Civita lies in the Lazio region, close to the borders with Tuscany and Umbria, which makes it an easy stop on a road trip through central Italy. Find more ideas in our guide to Italy holidays.
The town gate
Stepping through the narrow passage of the town gate is like stepping hundreds of years back in time.
Crossing the bridge into Civita
The only way in is a long pedestrian bridge from the neighbouring town of Bagnoregio. Visitors pay a small fee to cross, and the money goes towards preserving the village. The walk up is steep in places, but the view of Civita floating above the valley is the reason you came.
Inside the ancient gate, the mood is calm, almost sacred. There is one main square with a church, a few lanes of stone houses and viewpoints over a landscape of eroded clay ridges, known locally as calanchi.
The story of the dying city
The town was founded by the Etruscans and was once much larger. Earthquakes, erosion and landslides have gradually eaten away the cliff, splitting the old settlement in two and leaving Civita isolated on its rock. Over the years, many families moved away.
Today the cliffs have been reinforced, and tourism has brought the village back to life. Picolo met a couple who have moved back to the village and renovated a house there. Read their story in Civita di Bagnoregio: the dying city clinging to the cliffs.
The church
The church stands on the single open square in the village.
Charming streets
The houses are packed tightly together, and every corner is used.
La Cantina di Arianna
One of the local restaurants where you can stop for lunch or a glass of wine.
How to get to Civita di Bagnoregio
Civita di Bagnoregio is about two hours by car north of Rome and just under three hours south of Florence, so a hire car is by far the easiest option. Park in Bagnoregio and walk to the start of the bridge. Parking can be tight on busy days, so arrive early.
Combine your visit with Lake Bolsena, a short drive away, or with the red tufa town of Pitigliano in southern Tuscany, about an hour to the west. There are only a few places to stay in the village itself, so book early if you want to wake up on the rock.
When is the best time to visit Civita di Bagnoregio?
Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with mild weather for the walk across the bridge and softer light for photos. Arrive early in the morning or stay for sunset to avoid the busiest hours, particularly at weekends and in summer.
On misty autumn and winter mornings, the valley can fill with fog, leaving the village floating above the clouds. It is a magical sight if you are lucky with the weather.
Frequently asked questions about Civita di Bagnoregio
Is Civita di Bagnoregio in Tuscany?
No, Civita di Bagnoregio is in Lazio, the same region as Rome, in the province of Viterbo. It lies close to the borders with Tuscany and Umbria, which is why it often appears on Tuscany itineraries. Orvieto in Umbria and Pitigliano in southern Tuscany are both within easy driving distance.
Do you have to pay to enter Civita di Bagnoregio?
Yes, visitors pay a small fee to cross the bridge into the village, and the money goes towards maintaining and preserving Civita. Prices and ticket arrangements can change, so check the latest information locally or with the municipality of Bagnoregio before you visit.
How long do you need in Civita di Bagnoregio?
Two to three hours is enough to cross the bridge, explore the lanes and viewpoints and stop for a drink or a light lunch. If you want to see the village at its quietest, stay overnight or visit early in the morning, before most day-trippers arrive.
Can you get to Civita di Bagnoregio without a car?
Yes, but it takes some planning. The nearest train station is in Orvieto, from where local buses run to Bagnoregio, though services are limited, especially at weekends. From Bagnoregio you walk to the bridge. For most visitors, a hire car or an organised day trip from Rome is easier.