Buenos Aires travel guide
Grand boulevards, tango in the streets, long lunches and dinners that start at midnight. Buenos Aires is a city made for slow enjoyment.
Dining in Buenos Aires
Cosy restaurants and traditional parrillas are part of everyday life in the Argentine capital.
Things to do in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is a city of neighbourhoods, and each has its own character. In San Telmo, wander the cobbled streets and the Sunday antiques market; in La Boca, see the colourful houses of Caminito; and in Recoleta, visit the famous cemetery where Eva Perón is buried.
Palermo is the largest neighbourhood, with parks, boutiques and many of the city's best restaurants and bars. Don't miss the Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada, the presidential palace, or a show at the Teatro Colón, one of the world's great opera houses.
Beef
A steak at a parrilla, the Argentine grill, is an essential Buenos Aires experience.
Where to eat in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is a food city. Eat steak at a parrilla, try empanadas, and finish with ice cream, which is a serious business here thanks to the city's Italian heritage. Cafés are an institution, and some, like Café Tortoni, have been serving coffee for more than 150 years.
Here are Picolo's favourite eight super cosy restaurants in Buenos Aires, perfect for long dinners with a bottle of Malbec.
Late dinners
Porteños, as locals are called, rarely sit down for dinner before 9pm.
Tango in Buenos Aires
Tango was born in the working-class neighbourhoods around the port in the late 19th century. Today you can watch a professional tango show, take a lesson or join locals at a milonga, an evening of social dancing.
Explore more of the country, from Mendoza to Patagonia, in our Argentina holidays guide.
Best time to visit Buenos Aires
Spring, from September to November, and autumn, from March to May, are the best times to visit Buenos Aires, with mild temperatures and the city's jacaranda trees in bloom in November. Summer, from December to February, is hot and humid, and many locals leave for the coast.
Winter, from June to August, is cool but rarely cold and a good time for culture, cafés and tango.
Buenos Aires: frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Buenos Aires?
Three to four days is a good length to explore the main neighbourhoods, eat well, see a tango show and visit a museum or two. Add a day trip by ferry to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay or to the Tigre Delta.
Where should I stay in Buenos Aires?
Palermo is the most popular area for visitors, with restaurants, bars and parks. Recoleta is elegant and central, while San Telmo has more historic charm and tango bars.
Is Buenos Aires safe?
Buenos Aires is a large city, and like any big city it is important to take normal precautions, especially with phones and bags in busy areas and on public transport. Check your government's travel advice before you go.
Why is Buenos Aires called the Paris of South America?
The nickname comes from the city's grand European-style boulevards, palaces and cafés, built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when Argentina was one of the richest countries in the world.