Best hotels in Tunisia: where to stay, from Gammarth to the Sahara

A new palace on the bay

Four Seasons stands right on the sand at Gammarth, its white Moorish-style wings arranged around several pools and a large spa. Rooms face either the sea or the gardens, and after dark the lights of the coast stretch towards Sidi Bou Said.

This is our pick for a first visit: a proper beach holiday with the capital and the ruins within easy reach. It is a big hotel and busy in high season, and prices sit at the top of the Tunisian market. Spend an afternoon in Sidi Bou Said and be back in time for dinner by the pool.

Thalasso and golf by the sea

The Residence lies a little further along the coast, between the beach and a golf course. The building takes its cue from Tunisian palaces, with arches, tiles and a grand inner courtyard, and its thalasso centre is one of the best known in the country.

It suits travellers who want calm, treatments and slow mornings by the pool, with the city as a day trip rather than the main event. It is quieter than Four Seasons and more classic than contemporary in style. Golfers have the course next door, while everyone else can spend the day in the seawater pools.

White walls and blue doors in Sidi Bou Said

Dar Said is a historic house in the clifftop village of Sidi Bou Said, built around tiled courtyards full of plants, with a small pool. From the terraces you look across the rooftops to the sea, and the famous blue doors are right outside.

It is a romantic choice for two or three nights, best outside summer, when the day-trippers have gone home and the village falls quiet in the evening. Rooms vary in size and style, and there are stairs everywhere. Cars have to stay some distance away, so travel light.

A restored house inside the medina

Dar Ben Gacem is tucked inside the medina of Tunis, the old town that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The house has been restored with its original tiles and painted ceilings, and it has only a handful of rooms around a bright courtyard.

This is our culture pick, for travellers who want to see Tunis from the inside, with the souks, mosques and workshops on the doorstep. It is not a resort with a spa and pool but a small guest house where the hosts are generous with local advice. Pair a couple of nights here with a few days on the beach at Gammarth.

Adults only, with a sea view from every room

La Badira sits on the beach north of central Hammamet and welcomes adults only. Every room faces the sea, and there is a large spa, several pools and restaurants that lean towards fish and Mediterranean cooking.

It is our romantic pick, for couples who want quiet and attentive service without a kids' pool or entertainment programme. The style is modern and calm, and guests rate the food highly. The Hammamet medina is a short taxi ride away when you want an evening out.

Suites at Yasmine

Hasdrubal faces the beach at Yasmine Hammamet, with spacious suites, gardens and one of the largest thalasso centres in the area. Many guests come specifically for the multi-day spa programmes, which combine seawater pools, massage and treatments.

Book it for a longer, slower holiday where the spa is the main activity. It is a large property with slightly traditional decor, so if you prefer pared-back design, La Badira is a better match. The marina and promenade at Yasmine make a pleasant evening walk along the shore.

Room for the whole family

Hasdrubal Prestige sits on the long sandy beach on Djerba's north-east shore, with suites rather than standard rooms, large pools and its own thalasso centre. The suites are big enough for a family to share without tripping over each other.

This is our family pick in Tunisia, with space, a beach and warm weather well into autumn. It is a large resort, and distances within the grounds are long. Hire a car for a day and loop the island, taking in the souk at Houmt Souk and the El Ghriba synagogue.

A balcony over the desert

The Mora lies close to the Belvedere rocks outside Tozeur, with two outdoor pools and a balcony for every room. The palm groves are close by, and the hotel can arrange trips into the dunes and out to the salt lake.

It is our desert pick, for two or three nights after a few days on the coast. Summer is fiercely hot, so spring and autumn are the best seasons. Set an alarm and watch the sun rise over the desert from your balcony.