Best hotels in Oman: where to stay, from Muscat to the mountains and desert

The long pool

The Chedi lies on the beach at Ghubra, with white pavilions, reflecting pools and palms planted in neat rows. It is known for an exceptionally long pool by the sea, and the style is clean and calm with very little ornament.

This is our pick for a first visit: central, quiet and well placed for the Grand Mosque and the souk at Muttrah. It feels like a grown-up hotel, though children are welcome. Visit the mosque early, before the heat and the coaches.

The dome in the bay

Al Bustan Palace has its own bay south of the old town, ringed by mountains, with a vast domed atrium and a long private beach. It is run by Ritz-Carlton and has large gardens, several pools and a kids' club.

It is our family pick, with space, a beach and calm water. The style is palatial and traditional, and distances within the grounds are long. Old Muscat and Muttrah are a short drive away.

New at Shatti Al Qurum

Mandarin Oriental is one of Muscat's newest luxury hotels, on the beach at Shatti Al Qurum near the area's restaurants and cafes. Rooms are light and contemporary, and many have balconies facing the sea.

It suits travellers who want somewhere central and new, with the beach and city life close by. It has fewer reviews than the classics so far, but scores very highly. Evenings on the Qurum beachfront are busy with local families.

A beach between the mountains

Jumeirah Muscat Bay is in a secluded cove south of the city, with mountains rising straight behind the beach and pools stepping down towards the water. It is a newer resort with contemporary architecture in earthy tones.

It suits travellers who want peace and scenery while staying about half an hour from the centre. There is little to do beyond the resort, so it is best for unwinding. Snorkelling and boat trips along the coast can be arranged from the beach.

Al Mouj and the marina

Kempinski is in Al Mouj, a newer district with a marina, golf course and long beach in the north of the city, not far from the airport. Rooms are spacious, there are several pools, and the beach is wide and rarely crowded.

It works for families and for anyone combining the beach with golf or boating. It is some way from the old town and the souk, so you will need taxis. The marina promenade is pleasant in the evening.

Stone buildings above the gorge

Alila is built from local stone on the edge of a deep gorge, with a pool that looks out across the mountains. Rooms are large with windows facing the canyon, and the hotel runs hikes between the plateau villages.

This is our mountain pick, for two nights of walking, silence and stars. It is a long drive from Muscat, and the last stretch needs four-wheel drive. Pack a warm layer, as evenings can be chilly.

The viewpoint

Anantara sits right on the rim of the Saiq Plateau, with villas and rooms around a pool that seems to hang over the canyon. The viewpoint beside the hotel is named after Princess Diana, who visited in the 1980s.

It suits couples who want more service and more restaurants than at Alila. It is larger and more polished, and often full at weekends and during holidays. Watch the sunset from the viewpoint before dinner.

A pool villa on the beach

Six Senses fills a remote cove surrounded by mountains, with villas of stone and timber, most with their own pool. You can arrive by car over the mountain or, if you are brave, by paraglider from the top.

This is our romantic pick in Oman, for a honeymoon or a milestone trip. It is expensive and a long way from anywhere, around two hours' drive from Dubai. Once you are there, there are few reasons to leave.

Tents with en suite bathrooms

Desert Nights sits among the dunes, with suites shaped like Bedouin tents but fitted with proper beds, bathrooms and air conditioning. The resort offers camel rides, dune drives and dinner under the open sky.

It is our desert pick, for one or two nights on a touring holiday. The final stretch needs four-wheel drive, or you can be collected from the main road. Climb the nearest dune at sunset and stay until the stars come out.

Villas by the lagoon

Al Baleed lies between the beach and a freshwater lagoon in Salalah, with pool villas and a large spa. The ruins of the trading port of Al Baleed, part of the UNESCO-listed Land of Frankincense, are right next door.

It suits travellers who want a beach holiday in Oman with something different around it. Salalah has flights from Muscat, so you can skip the very long drive. In summer the coast is grey with monsoon cloud, but that is when the hills turn green.