The best hotels in India: nine palaces and grand hotels, from Mumbai to Udaipur

The grand hotel by the Gateway of India

The Taj Mahal Palace opened in 1903 opposite the Gateway of India in Colaba. Its red dome is one of the city's landmarks, and the heritage wing has sweeping staircases, art and views across the harbour.

This is our Mumbai pick, for the history and the location. Rooms in the heritage wing cost the most and are worth it. Have a drink in the Harbour Bar, one of the oldest in the city.

Sea views from Nariman Point

The Oberoi stands at Nariman Point at the end of Marine Drive, with big windows facing the Arabian Sea from most rooms. The style is modern and calm, and service is among the best in the city.

It suits you if you want peace and a sea view, perhaps on a business trip. It has less history than the Taj. Walk along Marine Drive at sunset, when the whole city is out.

Art deco on Janpath

The Imperial opened in 1931 on Janpath, close to Connaught Place. It has a large collection of colonial-era art and prints, and a palm-lined garden in the middle of the city.

This is our Delhi pick, for the location and the atmosphere. It is an old hotel, and some rooms are darker than in newer hotels. Take afternoon tea in the lounge.

A rooftop pool in the embassy district

The Leela Palace is in Chanakyapuri, the embassy district, built as a modern palace with marble, chandeliers and a pool on the roof.

It suits you if you want serious luxury and quiet surroundings. It is some way from the old parts of the city, so plan on a car. The rooftop pool is lovely at sunset in winter.

The Taj Mahal from your room

Amarvilas is about 600 metres from the Taj Mahal, and every room looks towards the monument. It is built in Mughal style, with fountains, terraces and a large pool.

This is our pick for the Taj Mahal, and one of the few hotels in India worth the price for the view alone. Electric buggies take guests to the entrance. Go at sunrise, before the crowds and the heat. The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays, so plan Agra for another day.

The maharaja's palace

Rambagh Palace was the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and became a hotel in 1957. It stands in large gardens with peacocks, and rooms have marble, carved furniture and high ceilings.

This is our palace pick, if you want to stay like royalty. It is a little outside the old city, but close enough for a short taxi ride. Have a drink on the veranda of the Polo Bar.

A fort in the garden

Rajvilas sits outside Jaipur, in a large garden laid out like a small fort with moats and pavilions. Guests stay in rooms, luxury tents or villas with private pools.

It suits couples and anyone who wants to rest between excursions. It takes about half an hour to reach the city. The spa is housed in an old mansion and is among the best in the country.

The palace in the lake

Taj Lake Palace was built in the 1740s as a summer palace on an island in Lake Pichola, and you can only reach it by boat. It is clad in white marble, and parts of the James Bond film Octopussy were shot here.

This is our romantic pick, and one of the most famous hotels in the world. Lake-facing rooms are the best. There is little space on the island, so spend the days in the city and the evenings on the terrace.

Inside the City Palace

Fateh Prakash is part of the City Palace in Udaipur, with rooms and suites facing Lake Pichola. Its Durbar Hall holds a famous collection of crystal furniture, and the terrace looks straight across to the Lake Palace.

It suits you if you want to stay in town, with the palace and the bazaars on the doorstep. Rooms are smaller than at the Lake Palace, and prices lower. Book dinner on the terrace at sunset.