Fly fishing
Saltwater fly fishing in the tropics: tarpon, bonefish and permit, and where to stay
Wading a white-sand flat in search of a tail is about as far from a chalk stream as fly fishing gets. The best places for saltwater fly fishing in the tropics, the seasons for the big three and the hotels closest to the flats.
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On a river you cast to fish you cannot see. On a Belize flat it is the other way round: you see the fish all the time, and they see you. The guide poles the skiff forward in silence, and the only sound is water lapping at the hull.
Tropical saltwater fly fishing revolves around three species. Tarpon are the giants, bonefish the sprinters, and permit the fussy ones that anglers spend years trying to fool. All live on shallow flats in the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico, and all are almost always released. What sets destinations apart is the season and where you can stay.
In short
The best places for saltwater fly fishing in the tropics with good hotels are the Florida Keys for tarpon, Belize for permit and the Bahamas for bonefish. Spring is the best time everywhere, from March to June. Book your guide and hotel together, ideally months ahead.
Our first choice: The Islander Resort in Islamorada, right in tarpon country and good for the whole family.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Islander Resort
The big three
Tarpon: Can top two metres and leaps when hooked. Read our tarpon fishing guide.
Bonefish: Small and grey, yet one of the fastest fish on a fly. See bonefishing: where and when.
Permit: Shy and selective, the hardest of the three. Read what permit are and where to find them.
Where to go
Florida Keys: Tarpon from April to June, permit around Key West. See Islamorada and the Florida Keys.
Belize: All three species inside the reef, best from March to June. See fly fishing in Belize.
Bahamas: Bonefish on several islands, especially Long Island. See bonefishing in the Bahamas.
Season calendar
January and February: Bonefish in the Bahamas and Belize on warm days.
March to May: Peak season for bonefish and permit across the Caribbean.
April to June: The tarpon migration through the Florida Keys.
June to November: Hurricane season. Fishing can be good, but the weather is unpredictable.
Coral Sands, Harbour Island
The pool beneath the palms is a stone's throw from the pink beach. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Hotels for anglers
Islander Resort, Islamorada
The Islander sits on the Atlantic side of Islamorada, home port for several of the best-known tarpon guides in the Keys. It has its own beach and spacious rooms, many with kitchenettes.
A good fit for families where not everyone fishes. The beach keeps the rest of the party busy.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Islander Resort
Chabil Mar, Placencia
Chabil Mar is on the Placencia peninsula in southern Belize, close to some of the world's finest permit flats. Villas have kitchens and sea-facing terraces, and guides can collect you from the dock.
The pick for a group of anglers who want to stay together and share costs.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Chabil Mar
Coral Sands, Harbour Island
Coral Sands sits on Harbour Island's pink beach, with bonefish flats on the far side of the island. It is a small hotel whose garden runs straight down to the sea.
Ideal for couples combining a few fishing days with a beach holiday in the Bahamas.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Coral Sands
Before you travel
Tackle: A 7 or 8 weight for bonefish, a 9 or 10 for permit and an 11 or 12 for tarpon.
Licences: All three destinations require a fishing licence, which guides often arrange.
Flights: London has direct flights to Miami and Nassau. Belize is usually reached via the United States.
Casting: Practise short, accurate casts in the wind. That is where most days are won or lost.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the best saltwater fly fishing in the tropics?
The best saltwater fly fishing in the tropics is found in the Florida Keys for tarpon, Belize for permit and the Bahamas for bonefish. Mexico and Puerto Rico are also well known. Choose by the species you want to catch and where you want to stay.
When is the best time to fish for tarpon, bonefish and permit?
Spring is the best time for all three species in the Caribbean, from March to June. Tarpon migrate through the Florida Keys from April to June. Bonefish can be caught all year, while permit are best in spring and early summer.
Do you need a guide for saltwater fly fishing?
Yes, most anglers fish with a guide, at least for the first few days. A guide has a boat and spots fish long before you do. On some flats you can also wade on your own.
How much does a fishing guide cost in the Caribbean?
The cost of a fishing guide in the Caribbean depends on the location and the number of anglers, and is usually charged per day. Ask your hotel or guide for prices before you travel, and budget for a tip on top.