Fly fishing
Bonefishing: where and when to catch the grey ghost on the fly
It rarely weighs more than three kilos, yet it can strip 100 metres of line in seconds. The bonefish is often the first tropical fish a fly angler catches, and the one that brings them back. Where, when and how, and where to stay.
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You are standing shin-deep, and the flat stretches white and empty in every direction. Then you see them: a ripple of movement, ten or twenty fish gliding towards you in a school. You cast, strip, set the hook, and the reel screams as the fish runs for the horizon.
The bonefish, Albula vulpes, is known as the grey ghost because it all but vanishes over a sandy bottom. It seldom tops three kilos, yet it is one of the fastest fish you can hook on a fly. For anglers raised on rivers and lakes, the biggest surprise is wading flats that look like a bathing beach.
In short
The best places for bonefishing on the fly are the Bahamas, Belize and Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, where you can fish all year. The peak season is March to May. You need a 7 or 8 weight rod, good polarised sunglasses and a guide for the first few days.
Our first choice: Valentines Resort & Marina on Harbour Island, where guide boats tie up outside your room.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Valentines Resort & Marina
Where and when
Bahamas: Andros, Long Island, Exuma and Harbour Island. Best from March to May.
Belize: Ambergris Caye and Placencia all year, often in big schools.
Mexico: Ascension Bay and the flats south of Tulum, with plenty of smaller fish.
Florida Keys: Fewer but larger bonefish than in the Caribbean, especially in spring and autumn.
Tackle and technique
A 7 or 8 weight rod with a floating line handles most bonefish. Your reel needs a smooth drag and at least 150 metres of backing, because the first run is long. Flies are small shrimp patterns, and your guide will know which work.
The most important kit is polarised sunglasses and light shoes you can wade in. Practise short, accurate casts in the wind before you travel. It is more often the cast than the fly that decides the day.
Victoria House from the air
The hotel sits on the beach, with the flats inside the reef just offshore. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Where to stay near the flats
Valentines Resort & Marina, Harbour Island
Valentines sits on the harbour side of Harbour Island, with its own marina where the fishing boats gather. The flats between Harbour Island and Eleuthera are a short run away.
Ideal for fishing every morning with restaurants and the pink beach within walking distance.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Valentines Resort & Marina
Victoria House Resort & Spa, Ambergris Caye
On Ambergris Caye in Belize, large schools of bonefish roam the flats inside the reef all year. Victoria House is on the beach south of San Pedro, with a jetty where guides can pick you up.
A good choice for trying both bonefish and permit, and staying somewhere elegant in between.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Victoria House Resort & Spa
Grand Isle Resort & Residences, Exuma
Great Exuma is surrounded by wide flats, and guides from George Town reach them quickly. Grand Isle has apartments and villas with kitchens, so you can eat breakfast early before the boat leaves.
Suits families and groups where not everyone fishes every day.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Grand Isle Resort & Residences
Frequently asked questions
Where is the best place to go bonefishing?
Andros in the Bahamas is often considered the best place for bonefishing, followed by Belize and Mexico's Yucatán. The Seychelles and Christmas Island in the Pacific are also famous, but are sold almost entirely as packages.
When is bonefish season?
You can fish for bonefish all year in the Caribbean, but the best months are usually March to May. The water is warm and the wind light. In winter, cold fronts can make fishing patchy, and hurricane season runs from June to November.
What fly rod do I need for bonefish?
Most anglers use a 7 or 8 weight fly rod for bonefish, with a floating line and a reel with a smooth drag. In strong wind, an 8 or 9 weight is easier to cast. Bring at least 150 metres of backing.
Can you eat bonefish?
Bonefish are almost always released, and catch and release is required in several places, including Belize and Florida. The fish is full of fine bones and rarely eaten in tourist areas.