Food and drink
Afternoon tea in Edinburgh: six places worth booking
Edinburgh takes its afternoon tea seriously. It is served under glass domes, in a former banking hall and in a library built for the city's lawyers. These are the places we would choose, and how to get a table.
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It is three o'clock, rain is sweeping down Princes Street, and inside The Balmoral someone is playing the harp beneath a glass dome. A waiter sets down a tiered stand and asks which tea you would like. Outside, umbrellas hurry past without looking in.
Few cities do the ritual with as much ceremony as Edinburgh, and fewer still have rooms this grand to do it in. Some are hotel lounges that have poured tea for more than a century, others are buildings designed for something else entirely. Hotel links go to Hotels.com.
In short: afternoon tea in Edinburgh
The Palm Court at The Balmoral is the classic, with a harpist under the glass dome. The Colonnades at the Signet Library has the most beautiful room, and Prestonfield House is the most theatrical. Book a few weeks ahead, especially for weekends, December and the August festivals.
Our first choice: The Balmoral beside Waverley station, with tea in the Palm Court under the glass dome. Check availability and prices
The Balmoral
The clock tower of The Balmoral above the east end of Princes Street.
The grand hotels
The hotels along Princes Street have been serving tea for well over a hundred years, and this is where you get the most ceremonial version.
Palm Court at The Balmoral: a harp beneath the dome
The Balmoral stands at the east end of Princes Street beside Waverley station. The clock on its tower is deliberately set a few minutes fast so travellers catch their trains. Tea is served in the Palm Court, a bright room under a glass dome, often to the sound of a harp.
It is the safest choice for a first visit or a celebration. It is also one of the priciest, and smart dress is expected.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Balmoral
The Caledonian
The red sandstone facade of the old railway hotel at the West End.
The Caledonian: the railway hotel with castle views
The Caledonian is the red sandstone former railway hotel at the west end of Princes Street, with views of the castle from many rooms. Tea is served in Peacock Alley, a long, light hall on the ground floor.
It suits anyone after the same classic setting as The Balmoral, with the castle in the window instead. The West End is slightly calmer than the area around the station.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Caledonian
Prestonfield House
One of the deep red drawing rooms where tea is served by the fire.
Prestonfield House: peacocks below Arthur's Seat
Prestonfield is a 17th-century mansion at the foot of Arthur's Seat, with peacocks on the lawn and deep red, lavishly decorated drawing rooms inside. Tea is served by the fire, and it feels like being invited to the home of someone with very decided taste.
Book it for a special occasion or a romantic weekend. It is outside the centre, so plan on a taxi or a walk through the park.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Prestonfield House
Tea in a bank and a library
Two of the city's most talked-about tea rooms are not in hotels at all, but in buildings designed for very different purposes.
The Colonnades at the Signet Library: The library on Parliament Square, off the Royal Mile, was built for the city's lawyers in the 19th century, with columns, tall windows and books lining the walls. It is the loveliest room in Edinburgh to take tea, and it is in demand, so book well ahead.
The Dome on George Street: The former bank with its columned portico and great domed hall is famous for its Christmas decorations, which draw queues in December. Tea is served in one of the smaller rooms, and the mood is livelier than in the hotels.
Less formal
If you want scones and cake without starched tablecloths, there are simpler options.
Mimi's Bakehouse began in Leith and is known for generous cakes and a relaxed take on afternoon tea. It suits families and anyone who would rather not dress up.
Several cafés in Stockbridge and Bruntsfield also serve afternoon tea at weekends. Ask for a cream tea if all you want is scones and a pot of tea.
Good to know
Book ahead: The well-known rooms fill up, particularly at weekends, in December and during the August festivals.
Timing: Allow an hour and a half to two hours. Many places run fixed sittings.
Dress: The hotels expect smart casual. No need for a suit, but leave the gym kit behind.
Dietary needs: Mention them when booking. Most places offer gluten-free and vegetarian versions.
Our first choice in Edinburgh
The Balmoral
We recommend The Balmoral because you can take afternoon tea in the Palm Court and sleep under the same roof. It stands at the top of Princes Street beside Waverley station, with the Old Town on one side and the New Town on the other. The clock on its tower runs a few minutes fast on purpose.
Afternoon tea in Edinburgh: your questions answered
Where is the best afternoon tea in Edinburgh?
It depends on the occasion. For a first visit, the Palm Court at The Balmoral is the safest bet, with a harpist under the glass dome. For the most beautiful room, choose The Colonnades at the Signet Library. Prestonfield House suits a special day, and Mimi's Bakehouse suits families.
Do you need to book afternoon tea in Edinburgh?
Yes, at the well-known places. The Balmoral, the Signet Library and Prestonfield sell out at weekends, in December and during the August festivals. Cafés and bakeries often take walk-ins, but expect to queue at busy times. For a Saturday in December, book as early as you can.
What is the difference between afternoon tea and cream tea?
Afternoon tea is a full spread of tea, sandwiches, scones and cakes on a tiered stand. Cream tea is simply tea with scones, clotted cream and jam. Cream tea is a quick break, while afternoon tea can easily replace lunch.
How long does afternoon tea take?
Allow an hour and a half to two hours. Many places run fixed sittings, so arrive on time. At the hotels, tea and sandwiches are usually topped up as you go, and boxing up the cakes you cannot finish is perfectly normal.
Where should I stay in Edinburgh for an afternoon tea weekend?
Stay at The Balmoral or The Caledonian on Princes Street, with tea under the same roof and both the Old Town and New Town within walking distance. Prestonfield House suits a quieter weekend beside Arthur's Seat. From there you can climb Arthur's Seat in the morning and take tea by the fire afterwards.