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Pool and palms by the sea at Cheeca Lodge in Islamorada, Florida Keys

Fly fishing

Islamorada: tarpon fishing, hotels and things to do in the Florida Keys

At Robbie's Marina, tarpon the length of a grown man surface under the dock for a handful of bait. Islamorada calls itself the sport fishing capital of the world, and it is the place to stay if your Keys trip is about fish.

 

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Pelicans line the rail at Robbie's Marina, waiting for the same thing as the tourists. A boy drops a sardine over the side and the water erupts: a tarpon as long as he is tall, gone again in a second. Half an hour away by skiff, guides are poling the flats for those same fish with a fly rod.

Islamorada is a string of small islands in the middle of the Florida Keys, about ninety minutes' drive from Miami. Its claim to be the sport fishing capital of the world is not just marketing, since many of the best-known flats guides in the Keys are based here. For anglers, that means the boats leave from your hotel dock rather than from a harbour an hour away.

In short

Islamorada is the best base for tarpon fishing in the Florida Keys, with the main season running from April to June. Bonefish and permit can be fished for much of the year. Stay on the water, and book your guide months ahead, as the best May dates are often gone by January.

Our first choice: Cheeca Lodge & Spa. It has its own dock and beach, and guides pick you up right outside.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Cheeca Lodge & Spa

When do the tarpon arrive?

  • April to June: The main run. Tarpon move through the channels and along the flats, sometimes in schools of hundreds.

  • Winter: Quieter, though bonefish feed on warm days. Cold fronts can shut the fishing down for a few days.

  • Summer and autumn: Hot and calm. Hurricane season runs from June to November, so book flexible rates.

How to book a guide

Most anglers fish from a flats skiff with a guide poling the boat across shallow water. Islamorada guides take one or two anglers per boat, and a day on the water usually runs from first light to early afternoon. Book directly with a guide or through your hotel, as many work with regular captains.

Florida requires a fishing licence for visitors. Fishing from a licensed guide's boat usually covers you, but check when you book. Tarpon are catch and release, and large fish must stay in the water.

Palm-lined path down to the beach at the Islander Resort in IslamoradaHotels.com (Expedia Group)

The Islander Resort


Palms line the path down to the Atlantic in Islamorada. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)

Where to stay in Islamorada

Cheeca Lodge & Spa

Cheeca Lodge has been Islamorada's classic fishing hotel for decades, with a long pier into the Atlantic and guides tying up beside the beach. There is a spa, a golf course and several restaurants for anyone who would rather not fish.

The pick if you want the best address in town and the shortest walk from breakfast to the boat.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Cheeca Lodge & Spa

Islander Resort

The Islander sits on the Atlantic side with a long palm-shaded beach and a pool. Rooms are bright and generous, and several come with kitchenettes. The bayside marinas are a few minutes' drive away.

A good choice for families, or for mixing fishing days with beach days. Rates are often below Cheeca's.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Islander Resort

Three Waters Resort and Marina

Three Waters is the old Holiday Isle, whose tiki bar is said to have invented the Rum Runner cocktail. Now renovated, it has its own marina, so you can walk from your room straight onto a boat.

Best if you want boats by day and some life in the evening. It is livelier than the quieter resorts.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Three Waters Resort and Marina

Amara Cay Resort

Amara Cay sits on the ocean in Islamorada, with a pool and hammocks facing the horizon. It is newer than its classic neighbours, with simple, modern rooms.

A calm and more affordable option when you are out on the water early and do not need a spa or golf.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Amara Cay Resort

Casa Morada

Casa Morada is a small hotel on the bay side, where the sun sets over Florida Bay. With only a handful of rooms it stays quiet, and several restaurants are within walking distance.

Ideal for couples who want calm between fishing days, and a sunset seen from dry land for once.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Casa Morada

Things to do in Islamorada

  • Robbie's Marina: Buy a bucket of bait and feed the tarpon from the dock. Children never forget it.

  • The sandbar: At weekends, boats anchor on the Islamorada Sandbar, where the water barely reaches your knees.

  • Anne's Beach: A narrow beach with shallow water and a boardwalk, good for children and paddling.

  • History of Diving Museum: A small museum on the story of diving, full of old brass helmets.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time for tarpon fishing in Islamorada?

The best time for tarpon fishing in Islamorada is from April to June, when the migration moves through the Keys. May is often the peak. Guides book up early, so reserve before Christmas if you want to fish in May.

Do I need a fishing licence in the Florida Keys?

Yes, visitors fishing in salt water in Florida need a licence. If you fish from a licensed guide's boat, you are usually covered by the guide's licence. Fishing from the shore or a kayak means buying your own. Tarpon and bonefish are catch and release.

Where should I stay in Islamorada?

Cheeca Lodge is the classic fishing hotel, with its own pier and guides who collect you from the beach. The Islander Resort suits families, Three Waters suits anyone who wants a marina and some nightlife, and Casa Morada suits couples after peace and quiet.

How far is Islamorada from Miami?

Islamorada is about ninety minutes' drive from Miami International Airport, depending on traffic. You follow the Overseas Highway, the road that hops from island to island down the Florida Keys.

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