Experiences
Yosemite National Park: the valley, the falls and the giant trees
Granite walls rise straight from the valley floor, and in spring the waterfalls thunder. How to experience Yosemite, and where to stay near the valley.
You drive through a tunnel, and there it is: Yosemite Valley, with El Capitan on the left, Bridalveil Fall on the right and Half Dome at the far end. It is one of the most famous views in America, and it is every bit as overwhelming in person as it is in photographs.
Yosemite National Park lies in California's Sierra Nevada, a few hours' drive from San Francisco. The valley is only a small part of the park, but it is where the big sights are packed together. The rest is high country, lakes and forest where it is much easier to find some peace.
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How to do it
Hire a car in San Francisco, or come in from the south via Fresno. There are also buses into the valley.
Check whether the park requires an advance reservation to drive in during peak season. The rules have changed from year to year.
Park the car and use the free valley shuttles. Car parks fill up quickly in the middle of the day.
Tioga Road over the high country and the road to Glacier Point close in winter.
What not to miss
Tunnel View is the spot for the classic photo, best in the late afternoon. In the valley you can walk to the foot of Yosemite Falls, at its most powerful in spring and early summer when the snow melts. By late summer it can be almost dry.
Look up at El Capitan and search for climbers, tiny dots halfway up the wall. From Glacier Point you look straight across at Half Dome and down over the whole valley, and to the south, the giant sequoias of Mariposa Grove are some of the largest trees on earth.
Yosemite Valley
In summer the valley is green and the river runs calm. Photo: Rakshith Hatwar / Unsplash
Hikes for every level
The Mist Trail to Vernal Fall is the most popular hike: steep, wet and wonderful. In spring you will be soaked by the spray, so bring a rain jacket. For something shorter and flat, walk around Cook's Meadow, with Yosemite Falls in one direction and Half Dome in the other.
The summit of Half Dome, with its famous cables, requires a permit allocated in advance. If you are planning it, apply early. Without a permit, Glacier Point and Taft Point are excellent alternatives with huge views and less walking.
Book experiences: See tours and activities in Yosemite
Where to stay for Yosemite
The park entrances are far apart, so choose your hotel by the part of the park you want to see. Stay in the valley and you can walk to the waterfalls. Stay outside and you get more space and facilities, but longer drives.
Yosemite Valley Lodge
Its nearest neighbour is Yosemite Falls. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Yosemite Valley Lodge: walk to the falls before breakfast
Yosemite Valley Lodge is inside the valley, near the foot of Yosemite Falls. You are out first in the morning and back last at night, after the day visitors have driven home.
The rooms are simple, but the location is what you are paying for.
Book your stay: See rooms at Yosemite Valley Lodge
Rush Creek Lodge
A pool and pine forest near the Big Oak Flat entrance. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
Rush Creek Lodge: a pool and spa after the hike
Rush Creek Lodge is next to the Big Oak Flat entrance on the west side of the park. It works well for families, with an outdoor pool, a spa and fire pits in the evening.
Book your stay: See rooms at Rush Creek Lodge and Spa at Yosemite
Evergreen Lodge: cabins in the woods
Evergreen Lodge is close to Hetch Hetchy, the quiet corner of the park. You stay in cabins among the trees and eat in a friendly restaurant, far from the valley traffic.
Book your stay: See rooms at Evergreen Lodge Yosemite
Château du Sureau: a French country house by the south entrance
In Oakhurst, south of the park, Château du Sureau is a small hotel in French country house style with a fireplace in every room. Mariposa Grove is a short drive up the road.
Book your stay: See rooms at Château du Sureau
When is the best time to visit Yosemite?
May and June are best for the waterfalls. July and August bring warm days, open mountain roads and the most visitors. September and October are quieter with lovely colours, but the falls may be small. In winter the valley is still and often snowy, and many roads are closed.
When should you book?
Lodges in the valley: many months ahead, they go fast.
Hotels outside the park: a few weeks ahead, earlier for summer.
Check entry rules and Half Dome permits before booking everything else.
Frequently asked questions about Yosemite
Where should I stay when visiting Yosemite?
Stay in Yosemite Valley if you want to walk to the waterfalls and viewpoints without a car. Yosemite Valley Lodge is in the middle of the valley. Rush Creek Lodge and Evergreen Lodge on the west side, and Château du Sureau to the south, offer more space and calm.
How far is Yosemite from San Francisco?
Allow around four hours by car from San Francisco to Yosemite Valley, depending on traffic and which entrance you use.
When do the Yosemite waterfalls have the most water?
The waterfalls are at their biggest in spring and early summer, when the mountain snow melts. In late summer and autumn, Yosemite Falls can be almost dry.
Do you need a permit to hike Half Dome?
Yes. To climb the final cables to the top of Half Dome you need a permit, allocated in advance. Day hikes elsewhere in the park do not need a separate permit.
How many days do you need in Yosemite?
Two to three days is a good starting point. That covers the valley, Glacier Point, a longer hike and ideally the giant sequoias in Mariposa Grove.