Madrid travel guide: the Prado, the Retiro and very late dinners
Three of Europe's great art museums within a mile of each other, a park where the whole city strolls on Sundays, and dinner at ten. Madrid lives late and lives well.
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Gran Vía
Photo: Arthur Hutterer / Unsplash
Madrid, the capital that stays up late
Sunday morning in La Latina. The El Rastro flea market fills the streets towards Ribera de Curtidores, and afterwards everyone piles into the tapas bars on Cava Baja. Nobody is in a hurry. Lunch starts at two, dinner rarely before ten, and it takes a day to adjust.
Spain's capital sits high on the central plateau, which brings hot summers and surprisingly cold winters. For the rest of the country, see our Spain travel guide.
Neighbourhoods to know
Sol and Centro
Puerta del Sol, the Plaza Mayor and the Royal Palace. The natural starting point.
La Latina
Tapas bars, old churches and El Rastro on Sundays. The most sociable quarter.
Malasaña and Chueca
Vintage shops, bars and the city's liveliest nightlife.
Salamanca
Elegant boulevards, designer shops and restaurants for a special night.
Three days in Madrid
Day 1: the Royal Palace, Plaza Mayor and the Mercado de San Miguel. Evening tapas in La Latina.
Day 2: the Prado in the morning, the Retiro after lunch, and the Reina Sofía, home of Picasso's Guernica, in the afternoon.
Day 3: a train to Toledo or Segovia, or the Thyssen-Bornemisza and an afternoon in Salamanca.
Food and drink
Madrid eats tapas bar by bar. Have a bocadillo de calamares, a fried squid sandwich, near the Plaza Mayor, and cocido madrileño, a hearty stew, for lunch on a cold day. Save churros with thick chocolate for late at night or first thing in the morning.
Gran Hotel Inglés
Photo: Hotels.com
Where to stay
Sol and Centro are central, Malasaña and Chueca are close to the nightlife, and Salamanca is quiet and polished. Our Madrid hotel guide has the picks.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Gran Hotel Inglés
Good to know
The Prado is free for the last two hours before closing every day, and the Reina Sofía has free evening hours several days a week. Expect a queue.
The metro runs from the airport to the centre, and there is also an express airport bus.
July and August are very hot, and many locals leave town.
Frequently asked questions about Madrid
How many days do you need in Madrid?
Three days covers the big museums, the Retiro and a day trip.
When is the best time to visit Madrid?
April to June and September to October. Summer is very hot and winter can be cold.
Can you do a day trip from Madrid to Toledo?
Yes. The high-speed train takes around half an hour, and the old town is a short bus or taxi ride from the station.
What is the best museum in Madrid?
The Prado for Velázquez and Goya. The Reina Sofía for modern art and Guernica.