Things to do in Lisbon: 12 experiences across the hills

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It is early afternoon at the Santa Luzia viewpoint, and below you the rooftops of Alfama tumble down to the Tagus. A yellow tram rattles past behind you, and the smell of grilled sardines drifts from a doorway in the alley. Nobody is in a hurry.

Lisbon is a city for walking, and the hills mean you see more than you planned. We have picked twelve experiences and said when to do them, so you get the city at its best and avoid the worst queues. If you are still choosing a base, we have explained where to stay in Lisbon.

Short answer: what should you do in Lisbon?

See the Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower, walk through Alfama to São Jorge castle and the viewpoints, and hear fado one evening. Eat at the market hall in Cais do Sodré, ride tram 28 early in the morning, and spend a day in Sintra or on the beaches near Cascais.

• Best for history: the Jerónimos Monastery

• Best views: the viewpoints of Alfama and Graça

• Best evening: fado in Alfama

• Best food: the market hall at Cais do Sodré

• Best day trip: Sintra

1. Belém: the monastery, the tower and the tarts

The Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and Lisbon's best-known monuments from the Age of Discovery. Next door, Pastéis de Belém draws queues for the warm custard tart, the pastel de nata.

The catch: queues at the monastery grow through the day. Arrive early, and buy tarts to take away rather than waiting for a table.

2. Alfama and São Jorge castle

Alfama is the oldest district, a maze of stairways and alleys climbing towards São Jorge castle. From the castle walls you see the whole city and the river, and on the way down you pass the cathedral.

Leave the map in your pocket. This is the best place in Lisbon to get lost, but wear good shoes: the cobbles are slippery and steep.

3. The viewpoints

Lisbon has a viewpoint, a miradouro, on almost every hill. Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol look over Alfama, Senhora do Monte in Graça is the highest, and São Pedro de Alcântara faces the castle across the valley.

Sunset draws a crowd. For a good spot, go up an hour early and bring something to drink.

4. Tram 28 first thing in the morning

The yellow number 28 tram runs through Graça, Alfama, the Baixa and Estrela, and is the city's most famous line. It is an easy way up the hills.

The catch: at midday it is packed, and pickpockets follow the visitors. Ride early, or use it as transport rather than an attraction.

5. An evening of fado

Fado is Lisbon's melancholy folk music, sung to the Portuguese guitar in small restaurants in Alfama and Mouraria. An evening of fado is one of the most Lisbon things you can do.

Choose a place where the music is the point and the audience falls silent for the songs. Book a table, and expect dinner to take its time.

6. The market hall at Cais do Sodré

Mercado da Ribeira at Cais do Sodré is the old city market, where one hall is now a food court with stalls from well-known chefs and restaurants. It is an easy way to try a lot in a short time.

It gets busy at lunch and dinner. Arrive early, or walk on to a tasca, a simple Portuguese eatery, in the surrounding streets.

7. Chiado and Bairro Alto

Chiado is the district of old cafés and bookshops, among them Bertrand, considered one of the oldest bookshops still trading in the world. Just above it, Bairro Alto comes alive at night.

Have coffee in Chiado in the afternoon, then climb into Bairro Alto after dinner if you want life on the streets.

8. The Feira da Ladra flea market

Feira da Ladra is Lisbon's flea market on Campo de Santa Clara, where Alfama meets Graça. You will find everything from old tiles to records and furniture.

It runs on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Go in the morning before the best finds are gone, and be ready to haggle.

9. LX Factory and Alcântara

LX Factory is a former industrial site beneath the 25 de Abril bridge, now filled with shops, restaurants and a bookshop in an old printing hall. It makes a good stop on the way out to Belém.

It is liveliest at weekends, and some shops open late. Combine it with Belém on the same day.

10. The Gulbenkian Museum

The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum holds one of Europe's finest private art collections, from antiquity to French Impressionism, set in a park with ponds and trees. It is a calm break from the hills and the crowds.

The museum is north of the centre. Take the metro, and allow an hour for the garden too.

11. A day trip to Sintra

Sintra sits in the hills west of Lisbon, with the Pena and Regaleira palaces, the Moorish castle and lush gardens. The train from Rossio takes under an hour.

The catch: Sintra is extremely popular and the buses up to the palaces fill up. Go on a weekday, start early, and choose two or three sights rather than trying to see everything.

12. The beaches near Cascais

The train from Cais do Sodré runs along the river and the coast to Cascais, passing beaches and seaside towns on the way. It is an easy beach and seafood day without a car.

This is the Atlantic, so the water is colder than the Mediterranean. In summer the train and the beaches are crowded at weekends.

Where to stay in Lisbon

Most of this list is within walking distance or a short tram ride of Alfama and the Baixa. See the full selection in our guide to the best hotels in Lisbon.

Memmo Alfama: a terrace above the rooftops

Memmo Alfama hides in an alley below the cathedral, with a terrace and a small pool hanging over the rooftops of Alfama and the river below. A good place to start the day before climbing to the castle.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Memmo Alfama

Hotel Avenida Palace: the grand hotel by Rossio

Avenida Palace stands between Rossio and Restauradores, next door to the station where trains leave for Sintra. The lobby is all marble and chandeliers, and you stay somewhere flat and central.

Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Hotel Avenida Palace

Good to know before you go

• Good shoes: the cobbles are slippery, especially after rain. Trainers beat sandals.

• Travel card: a rechargeable travel card works on the metro, trams, buses and the trains to Sintra and Cascais.

• Pickpockets: take extra care on tram 28 and in the crowds around the main sights.

• Book ahead: the Sintra palaces and the monastery in Belém sell tickets online, which saves you queuing.

Lisbon: frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Lisbon?

Three to four days covers the city, Belém and a day trip to Sintra. With an extra day you can also reach the beaches near Cascais.

Is tram 28 worth it?

Yes, if you ride it early in the morning. At midday it is packed, and walking parts of the route is often just as good.

When is the best time to visit Lisbon?

Spring and autumn are best, with pleasant weather and fewer people than in July and August. Winter is mild but can be wet.

How do I get to Sintra from Lisbon?

Take the train from Rossio station. It takes under an hour, and buses run from Sintra station up to the palaces.

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