Fjelltur
Besseggen: the ridge hike, the boat and where to stay
Emerald Gjende on one side, deep-blue Bessvatnet on the other. Besseggen is Norway’s most famous mountain hike. Here is the distance, the boat, the season and the hotels we recommend.
On one side lies Gjende, green as jade. On the other lies Bessvatnet, deep blue and hundreds of metres higher. And between them runs a narrow ridge you are about to cross. Besseggen is Norway’s most famous mountain hike, and around 60,000 people walk it every year. Henrik Ibsen made it immortal in Peer Gynt.
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Short answer: Besseggen
Distance: Around 14 kilometres.
Time: Six to eight hours.
Ascent: Around 1,000 metres.
Season: When the Gjende boat runs, from mid-June to mid-September.
Stay nearby
In Beitostølen: Beito Resort Hotel, around an hour’s drive from Gjendesheim. See rooms at Beito Resort Hotel
How to do the hike
Most people take the boat from Gjendesheim to Memurubu, a trip of around 20 minutes, and walk back over the ridge. That way the view is ahead of you all the way, and you do not have to catch a boat. Book tickets in advance, especially for the morning boats in high season.
The ridge
The best-known section is the narrow ridge between Gjende and Bessvatnet. It is steep, but not as exposed as it looks in photos, and there is good grip. The summit, Veslfjellet, is at around 1,743 metres, and from there the path descends towards Gjendesheim.
Parking
The car park is at Reinsvangen, around one and a half kilometres before Gjendesheim, with a bus on to the boat. It fills up fast in high season.
Good to know
Start early: Both to get on a boat and to walk in peace.
Bring enough: Food, water, extra layers and rain gear. There is nothing to buy on the way.
Watch the weather: The ridge can be unpleasant in strong wind and rain.
Stay on the path: A lot of work has gone into repairing erosion.
Peer Gynt and the buck ride
In Henrik Ibsen’s Peer Gynt, Peer tells of a wild ride on the back of a reindeer buck across Gjendineggen, as Besseggen was then called. The tale has made the hike famous far beyond Norway.
More Jotunheimen
Jotunheimen is home to Norway’s highest mountain, Galdhøpiggen, and many other classic hikes. With a few more days you can hike from lodge to lodge along Gjende.
Where to stay
Beito Resort Hotel: in Beitostølen
A large mountain hotel with a pool and spa, a good base for Jotunheimen.
Book your stay: See rooms at Beito Resort Hotel
The Norwegian Trekking Association’s lodges by Gjende, such as Gjendesheim and Memurubu, are also popular bases. They are booked directly with DNT.
Frequently asked questions about Besseggen
How long is Besseggen?
Around 14 kilometres from Memurubu to Gjendesheim.
How long does it take to hike Besseggen?
Six to eight hours for most people, with breaks.
Do you have to take the boat?
No, but most people take the boat to Memurubu and walk back. You can also walk the other way and take the boat back.