Venice travel guide: quiet mornings, water buses and the islands
A city without cars, where the water bus is the tram and every lane ends in a canal. Venice is jammed at midday and almost empty at seven in the morning. Timing is everything.
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Venice
Photo: Ola Noland / Unsplash
Venice, a city on the water
Seven in the morning on the Rialto Bridge. Vegetable boats tie up at the market, a refuse barge slides underneath and there is not another visitor in sight. Three hours later you can barely cross. Venice rewards early risers and anyone willing to leave the main routes.
The city is built on more than 100 small islands in a lagoon, stitched together by around 400 bridges. There are no cars, so you walk or take the vaporetto, the water bus. For the rest of the country, see our Italy travel guide.
Districts to know
San Marco
The square, the basilica and the Doge's Palace. Unavoidable, and at its best early and late.
Dorsoduro
The Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim galleries, student bars and the sunny Zattere waterfront. Our favourite place to stay.
Cannaregio
Where everyday Venetian life carries on, with the old Jewish Ghetto and bacari, tiny wine bars serving cicchetti, along the canals.
Castello
Quieter and more local, home to the gardens that host the Biennale.
Two days in Venice
Day 1: St Mark's Basilica early, the Doge's Palace (book ahead), then the Rialto and its market. Evening on a bacaro crawl in Cannaregio.
Day 2: Dorsoduro and the Accademia in the morning, the vaporetto down the Grand Canal, and an afternoon on Murano for glass and Burano for its painted houses.
Good to know
Venice charges day-trippers an access fee on selected days. Overnight guests are exempt, but check the current rules before you travel.
A multi-day vaporetto pass pays off quickly if you plan to use the boats more than a couple of times.
Acqua alta, the high tide, can flood parts of the city in autumn and winter. Pack waterproof shoes.
The cafés on St Mark's Square add a charge for the orchestra. Drink elsewhere unless you want the music.
Hotel Londra Palace
Photo: Hotels.com
Where to stay
Staying overnight gives you the evenings and mornings when the day-trippers have gone. Our Venice hotel guide picks hotels district by district.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Hotel Londra Palace
Frequently asked questions about Venice
How many days do you need in Venice?
Two nights covers the main sights and a trip to the islands. One night is far better than a day trip.
Do you have to pay to enter Venice?
Day visitors pay an access fee on selected dates. Guests staying overnight in the city are exempt.
How do I get from Venice airport to the city?
The Alilaguna boat runs from Marco Polo airport to stops across the city. Buses to Piazzale Roma are quicker and cheaper.
When is the best time to visit Venice?
April, May, September and October offer pleasant weather and slightly smaller crowds than summer.