Family holidays
Rome with kids: gladiators, gelato and a park full of pines
Rome is a city children grasp faster than their parents expect. The Colosseum is a real arena, Villa Borghese has a zoo and rowing boats, and gelato is on every corner. Here is the plan we would follow, and the hotels that make it easy.
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An eight-year-old girl stands in the Colosseum looking down into the passages under the arena, where animals were kept before the fights. She asks whether the lions had names. The guide does not know, but she has already decided one was called Marco.
Rome is dense with history, which can be a lot for children. The trick is to choose few things a day and build in breaks in the parks and on the piazzas, where there is always room to run. We have picked what works for children, and hotels where you can rest in the middle of the day.
Short answer: what to do in Rome with kids
Book the Colosseum with a guide or audio guide in advance, spend an afternoon in Villa Borghese with the Bioparco zoo and rowing boats, and take younger children to the Explora museum. End each day with gelato on a piazza, and add a day trip to the ruins of Ostia Antica.
Best for history: the Colosseum and the Forum
Best for toddlers: Explora
Best park: Villa Borghese
Best day trip: Ostia Antica
Best family hotel: Hotel de Russie
Palazzo Manfredi
The Colosseum view from Palazzo Manfredi.
The Colosseum and the Forum: where gladiators fought
The Colosseum is the sight most children have heard of, and it lives up to it. Book a timed ticket, ideally with a guide or audio guide that tells the story of the gladiators and animals. The Roman Forum next door is large and exposed, so bring water and hats. See our guide to Colosseum tickets.
The catch: there is little shade and summer heat is intense. Go first thing in the morning.
Palazzo Manfredi: the Colosseum from your window
This seventeenth-century palazzo stands above the ruins of the Ludus Magnus gladiator school, and many rooms look straight at the Colosseum. For children who have been inside the arena, seeing it lit up at night is a thrill. Breakfast is served on the roof terrace, and prices are high.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Palazzo Manfredi
Rocco Forte Hotel de Russie
The garden at Hotel de Russie in Rome.
Villa Borghese: zoo, rowing boats and bikes
Villa Borghese is Rome's great park and a child's best friend in the city. It has the Bioparco zoo, a small lake where you can hire a rowing boat, and rental bikes and covered four-wheel pedal cars the whole family can ride together.
From the Pincio terrace you look out over Piazza del Popolo and the domes of the city. Near Piazza del Popolo is the Explora children's museum, where young children can play shop, firefighter and scientist.
The catch: Explora runs set sessions, so book a time before you go.
Hotel de Russie: a garden behind the wall
Hotel de Russie sits between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps, with a terraced garden where children can stretch their legs after a day in the city. Villa Borghese and Explora are a few minutes' walk away. It is one of Rome's most expensive hotels, but for a family the location is hard to beat.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Rocco Forte Hotel de Russie
Hotel Lord Byron
Hotel Lord Byron in Parioli.
Hotel Lord Byron: quiet by the park
Lord Byron is in the leafy residential district of Parioli, a few minutes' walk from Villa Borghese. It is small and calm, with a terrace where parents can sit while the children sleep. It is some way from the main sights, so expect to use taxis or the tram.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Hotel Lord Byron
Hassler Roma
A room at Hassler Roma.
Fountains, piazzas and Ostia Antica
The Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps are most fun early in the morning, before the crowds. Throw a coin in the fountain, then walk on to Piazza Navona, where the fountains and street artists keep children busy while you have a coffee.
Ostia Antica is Rome's ancient port, half an hour by train from the centre. You walk straight into houses, baths and the theatre, with fewer people than at the Forum. It is a good day for children who have caught the Roman bug.
The catch: cobblestones make pushchairs hard work. A baby carrier or light buggy is better.
Hassler Roma: at the top of the steps
The Hassler stands at the top of the Spanish Steps and has been run by the same family for six generations. From the rooftop restaurant you see the dome of St Peter's. It is a classic luxury hotel, and for children the steps outside the door are an attraction in themselves.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Hassler Roma
Good to know before you go
Book ahead: the Colosseum, the Vatican Museums and Explora use timed tickets.
Rest at midday: many shops close after lunch and the heat builds. Do as the Romans do and take a break.
Water from the fountains: the small street fountains, nasoni, run with clean drinking water. Bring a bottle.
Gelato as a reward: choose gelaterias with muted colours, which are more likely to make their own.
Rome with kids: frequently asked questions
Is Rome good for kids?
Yes, if you choose few things a day. The Colosseum, Villa Borghese and the piazzas work well, and the food is easy for children to like.
What can toddlers do in Rome?
The Explora museum, the Bioparco zoo and the rowing boats in Villa Borghese suit children under seven.
Where should you stay in Rome with kids?
Around Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps you are close to the park and most sights, and it is quieter at night than Trastevere.
Is the Colosseum worth it with kids?
Yes, especially with a guide or audio guide about the gladiators. Book an early slot to avoid the heat.