Naples travel guide: pizza, the old town and Pompeii
The birthplace of pizza is loud, chaotic and impossible to resist once you find its rhythm. Naples is also the gateway to Pompeii, Vesuvius, Capri and the Amalfi Coast.
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The Bay of Naples
Photo: Kir Shu / Unsplash
Naples, Italy turned up loud
A scooter carrying three people squeezes down a lane barely wide enough to walk. Washing hangs overhead, and from an open doorway comes the smell of pizza straight from a wood oven. Naples is Italy's third city and its most alive. It is not tidy, but it is real.
It sits on the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius to the east, and its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For the rest of the country, see our Italy travel guide.
Neighbourhoods to know
Centro Storico and Spaccanapoli
The arrow-straight street that splits the old town, lined with churches, nativity workshops and the most famous pizzerias.
Quartieri Spagnoli
The tight grid of the Spanish Quarter, with street art, tiny trattorias and the famous Maradona mural.
Chiaia
Smart and moneyed, with the seafront Lungomare and views across to Vesuvius.
Vomero
Up on the hill, calmer, with Castel Sant'Elmo and the best panorama in town.
Three days in Naples
Day 1: Spaccanapoli, the Veiled Christ in the Cappella Sansevero (book ahead) and pizza for lunch. Evening stroll on the Lungomare.
Day 2: a train to Pompeii, then the National Archaeological Museum, where the best finds from Pompeii are kept.
Day 3: a boat to Capri, or a walk up to the crater of Vesuvius.
Food
Neapolitan pizza has a soft base and a puffy rim, and it is eaten with a knife and fork. Try pizza fritta, the deep-fried version, and a crisp ricotta sfogliatella with your espresso, taken standing at the bar like the locals.
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
Photo: Hotels.com
Where to stay
The Centro Storico suits a first visit, Chiaia is calmer and more elegant, and the port area is handy for the island ferries. Our Naples hotel guide has the picks. Heading south? Read about the Amalfi Coast.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Grand Hotel Vesuvio
Good to know
Keep phones and bags close in crowds and on public transport, as in any big city.
The Circumvesuviana railway runs to Pompeii and Sorrento. It is cheap and simple, but often packed.
Ferries to Capri, Ischia and Sorrento leave from Molo Beverello and Calata Porta di Massa.
Frequently asked questions about Naples
Is Naples safe for tourists?
Most visits go smoothly. Watch for pickpockets in crowds and keep valuables close, as you would in any large city.
How do you get from Naples to Pompeii?
Take the Circumvesuviana from Napoli Garibaldi to Pompei Scavi. The journey takes about half an hour.
How many days do you need in Naples?
Three days gives you the city, Pompeii and either Capri or Vesuvius.
Where is the best pizza in Naples?
The classic pizzerias cluster around Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali. Expect a queue, but it moves fast.