Car hire
Car hire in Italy: how to drive Tuscany, Sicily and the Dolomites
A little Fiat 500, a winding road between cypress trees and a farmhouse on top of a hill. Here are the routes, the rules and the airports that make a driving holiday in Italy easy.
Italy is made for road trips. Trains link the big cities, but the vineyards of Chianti, the villages of the Val d'Orcia and the beaches of Sicily are best reached by car. Car hire in Italy gives you the freedom to stop at a farm shop, take a detour to a viewpoint and make it to dinner in a hill town long after the last bus has gone.
We recommend a small car. A Fiat 500 or a Fiat Panda is practically a national symbol, and it fits the narrow lanes, steep streets and parking spaces that were made for exactly this kind of car. If there are four of you or you plan long stretches on the motorway, something a little bigger is more comfortable.
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How to choose the right hire car in Italy
A small car (Fiat 500, Panda) for Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast and Sicily, where the roads are narrow.
A mid-size car if you are four adults or will spend a lot of time on the autostrada.
Automatic gearboxes often need booking early, as most hire cars in Italy are manual.
Collect the car at the airport, not in the city centre, to avoid city traffic and ZTL zones.
Tuscany: Florence, Pisa and the Val d'Orcia
Tuscany is the classic Italian road trip. From Florence or Pisa it is a short drive to Chianti, the medieval towns of San Gimignano and Siena, and the rolling hills of the Val d'Orcia. Further south are Pitigliano and Civita di Bagnoregio, two of the most photogenic villages in the country. For somewhere to stay along the way, see our Tuscan villas and farmhouses.
Collect your car in Florence
Florence is closest to Chianti and Siena. Pick up the car on the day you leave the city, not when you arrive, as the centre is almost entirely ZTL.
Car hire: See car hire in Florence
Collect your car in Pisa
Pisa has a large airport with plenty of rental desks, and the roads lead straight to the coast and into the Tuscan hills.
Car hire: See car hire in Pisa
Portrait Firenze
On the Arno, a short walk from the Ponte Vecchio.
Where to stay in Florence: Portrait Firenze
Spend the first nights by the Arno and collect the car on the day you head for the vineyards. Portrait Firenze sits on the river, a couple of minutes on foot from the Ponte Vecchio.
Book your stay: See rooms at Portrait Firenze
Sicily: Etna, Taormina and Cefalù
Sicily is big, and public transport outside the cities is thin on the ground. With a hire car you can drive up towards Etna in the morning and swim near Taormina in the afternoon. If you want to see the locations from The White Lotus, a car is the easiest way.
Mount Etna
The volcano is a short drive from Catania.
Collect your car in Catania
Catania is the gateway to the east coast, Etna and Taormina. The airport is just outside the city.
Car hire: See car hire in Catania
Collect your car in Palermo
Palermo suits the north and west coasts, with Cefalù a little way east along the shore.
Car hire: See car hire in Palermo
Rocco Forte Villa Igiea
A seafront villa in Palermo.
Where to stay in Palermo: Rocco Forte Villa Igiea
An Art Nouveau villa by the sea, with gardens running down to the water. A calm place to start or finish a loop around Sicily.
Book your stay: See rooms at Villa Igiea
Rome and the Amalfi Coast
You do not need a car in Rome, and you should not drive in the centre. If you are heading on to Tuscany, Lazio or south towards Naples, collect the car on your way out of the city.
Hotel de Russie
The garden behind the hotel on Piazza del Popolo.
Where to stay in Rome: Hotel de Russie
On Piazza del Popolo, with one of the loveliest gardens in the city. Stay here for the first few days and pick up the car when you are done with Rome.
Book your stay: See rooms at Hotel de Russie
Collect your car in Rome
Choose a rental desk at the airport or on the edge of the city so you avoid driving through the centre.
Car hire: See car hire in Rome
Collect your car in Naples
Naples is the starting point for the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii. The Amalfi road is narrow and winding, and in summer it is busy. Many people use the ferry or bus on the coast itself and keep the car for the rest of the trip.
Car hire: See car hire in Naples
The Dolomites and northern Italy
The mountain roads of the Dolomites are among the most beautiful in Europe, with passes twisting up between jagged peaks. In winter you need winter equipment on the car, and some passes may be closed.
The Dolomites
Mountain passes and alpine meadows in northern Italy.
Collect your car in Venice
Venice is the nearest major airport for the eastern Dolomites. You collect the car on the mainland, as nobody drives in Venice itself.
Car hire: See car hire in Venice
Collect your car in Milan
Milan suits Lake Como, Lake Garda and the roads on into the Alps.
Car hire: See car hire in Milan
Collect your car in Bologna
Bologna sits in the middle of Emilia-Romagna, with Parma ham, Parmesan and balsamic vinegar on the doorstep and Tuscany on the other side of the hills.
Car hire: See car hire in Bologna
What you need to know about driving in Italy
ZTL zones: The centre of many Italian towns is closed to ordinary traffic (zona a traffico limitato). The signs are easy to miss, and cameras send the fine via your rental company. Park outside and walk in.
Tolls: Motorways (autostrada) are tolled. Take a ticket when you join and pay when you leave.
Parking: Blue lines mean paid parking, white lines are often free and yellow lines are reserved.
Driving licence: Check the current rules for your licence before you travel, and bring your passport and a credit card in the driver's name.
Fuel: Many stations have both self-service (fai da te) and attended pumps (servito), and attended costs more.
When should you book your hire car?
For summer, Easter and half term: book several months ahead, especially if you want an automatic.
Out of season it is easier to find a car, and the roads are quieter.
Compare pick-up points: airports often have the most cars and the longest opening hours.
Frequently asked questions about car hire in Italy
Do I need a hire car in Italy?
It depends on where you are going. Between the big cities of Rome, Florence and Milan, the train is often faster. For Tuscany, Sicily, the Dolomites or the countryside, a hire car gives you far more freedom, because many villages and vineyards are a long way from the stations.
What car should I hire in Italy?
A small car such as a Fiat 500 or Fiat Panda is easiest in narrow streets and small parking spaces. If you are four adults with plenty of luggage, or plan long motorway drives, a mid-size car is more comfortable.
What is a ZTL in Italy?
ZTL stands for zona a traffico limitato, an area where only permitted vehicles may drive. The centre of most large and many small towns is a ZTL. If you drive in, you are photographed and the fine arrives via the rental company. Park outside and walk in.
Is driving in Italy difficult?
Motorways are good and well signposted, but town centres, narrow village streets and busy coast roads take some patience. A small car, a little planning around ZTL zones and avoiding city centres make driving in Italy far more relaxed.
Where should I collect my hire car in Italy?
Collect the car at the airport or on the edge of town, so you avoid driving in the centre with its ZTL zones and traffic. Pisa and Florence are good bases for Tuscany, while Catania and Palermo work well for Sicily.