Reykjavik travel guide: hot pools, the harbour and Iceland beyond
The world's northernmost capital is small enough to walk across in an hour, and the wild begins where the city ends. Reykjavik is the starting point for almost everything you will want to see in Iceland.
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Reykjavik
Photo: Einar H. Reynis / Unsplash
Reykjavik, a small capital with a big backyard
It is seven on a January evening, pitch dark and minus five. You are up to your neck in hot water in an outdoor pool, alongside Icelanders on their way home from work. The pools are Reykjavik's real meeting places: cheap, hot and open late.
About two in three Icelanders live in and around the capital. The centre is compact and walkable, and drives to waterfalls, geysers and lava fields begin just outside town. For the rest of the country, see our Iceland travel guide.
What to see
The centre and Laugavegur
The main street of shops, cafés and bars, with Hallgrímskirkja at the top of the hill and a view from its tower.
The old harbour
Fish restaurants, whale-watching boats and the glass-fronted Harpa concert hall.
The pools
Sundhöllin in the centre and Laugardalslaug, the city's largest, are good places to start. Shower without a swimsuit before you get in. It is the rule, and it is enforced.
Grandi
The old harbour district west of the centre, with food halls and museums.
Three days in Reykjavik
Day 1: Hallgrímskirkja, Laugavegur and the harbour. An evening at an outdoor pool.
Day 2: the Golden Circle: Þingvellir, the Strokkur geyser and Gullfoss waterfall.
Day 3: the south coast waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, or a slow day at one of the spa lagoons outside the city.
Food and drink
Icelandic food means fish, lamb and dairy. Have fish soup by the harbour, lamb soup on a cold day and skyr for breakfast. The Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand near the harbour is an institution. Alcohol is expensive, which is why so many arrivals stop at duty free.
Hotel Borg
Photo: Hotels.com
Where to stay
Stay in the centre to walk everywhere, or out of town for hotels in the landscape. Our Reykjavik hotel guide has the picks, and our guide to the Golden Circle and Blue Lagoon covers the classic day out.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Hotel Borg
Good to know
The airport bus from Keflavík to the centre takes around 45 minutes.
Volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula can close roads and attractions, including the Blue Lagoon. Check the latest before you travel.
The northern lights season runs from September to April. You will see them best away from the city lights.
Frequently asked questions about Reykjavik
How many days do you need in Reykjavik?
Three days gives you the city plus two day trips, such as the Golden Circle and the south coast.
Can you see the northern lights in Reykjavik?
Yes, on clear nights between September and April, but your chances improve once you drive out of town.
Do you need a car in Reykjavik?
Not in the city. For day trips choose between a hire car and a tour. In winter, a tour is the safer option for many visitors.
Is Reykjavik expensive?
Yes, especially eating out and alcohol. The pools, the walks and the views are the best value in town.