Destination
Rethymno: the old town, the Fortezza and the hotels we pick
Rethymno sits halfway between Chania and Heraklion, with an old town on a headland and a long sandy beach to the east. It is smaller and calmer than Chania. Here is what to see, and where to stay.
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In short: Rethymno
Rethymno suits you if you want an old town and a beach in the same place. The old town wraps around the small Venetian harbour, and the sandy beach starts just east of the centre. Our first choice is Nautilux, on the beach with an indoor pool and a spa.
Our first choice: Check availability and prices at Nautilux by Mage Hotels
What to see
The Fortezza
The Venetian fortress, the Fortezza, sits on the hill above the old town. From the walls you look out to sea and across the rooftops. Come late in the afternoon, when the light is softest.
The old town
The old town mixes Venetian houses with Turkish wooden balconies, with minarets between the roofs. The Rimondi Fountain sits in the middle of the lanes, surrounded by cafés and tavernas.
The old harbour
The small harbour has a lighthouse on the breakwater and restaurants packed along the water. It is a fine spot for dinner, but the restaurants in the lanes are often cheaper.
The beach
The sandy beach starts just east of the old town and runs for many kilometres along the coast. This is where most of the beach hotels are.
Day trips from Rethymno
Arkadi Monastery sits in the hills southeast of town and is one of the most important memorials on Crete. Further south the road crosses the mountains to the beaches of the south coast. Chania is about an hour west of Rethymno by car.
Day trips from Rethymno: See experiences and tickets in Rethymno
Kapsaliana Village
Kapsaliana Village sits in an old village among olive groves in the hills near Rethymno. Photo: Hotels.com (Expedia Group)
The hotels we pick in Rethymno
Nautilux by Mage Hotels
Nautilux sits right on the sandy beach in Rethymno, with parasols and loungers in front of the hotel. An indoor pool, a spa and a pool bar keep the stay comfortable when the sea is cool. Guests especially praise the pool and the staff, and the old town is about ten minutes away by car.
Best for: travellers who want the beach by day and the old town in the evening.
Good to know: With an indoor pool, the hotel also suits spring and autumn.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Nautilux by Mage Hotels
Casa Vitae
Casa Vitae is a hotel with a historic feel in Rethymno, with two outdoor pools, a hot tub, a terrace and a garden. Several units have a kitchen, a living room and two bedrooms, which suits families and friends travelling together. The hotel can also arrange transfers from the airport and the ferry.
Best for: couples who want to stay in the old town and still have a pool.
Good to know: The old town is cramped, so ask about parking if you have a hire car.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Casa Vitae
Rimondi Boutique Hotels
Rimondi is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and sits in the old town of Rethymno. From the roof terrace you look out over the town, and the hotel has two outdoor pools, a pool bar and a spa with a steam room. The 33 units come with bathrobes and slippers, and guests praise the staff.
Best for: couples who want luxury inside old walls.
Good to know: The rooms are in old buildings, so they vary in size.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Rimondi Boutique Hotels
Kapsaliana Village Hotel
Kapsaliana Village is a luxury hotel in a restored village among olive groves in the hills near Rethymno. There is a restaurant, a spa with deep tissue massage, a pool bar and a terrace. It is quiet in the evening, and you stay close to rural Crete.
Best for: couples who want peace and a village feel.
Good to know: You need a car to reach the town and the beaches.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Kapsaliana Village Hotel
Our first choice in Rethymno
Nautilux by Mage Hotels
Nautilux sits on the sandy beach in Rethymno, with an indoor pool and a spa. By day you swim in the sea right outside, and in the evening you walk into the old town and the harbour. The indoor pool makes it a good choice outside high season too.
Frequently asked questions about Rethymno
Is Rethymno or Chania better?
Chania has the largest and loveliest old town, but it is also the busiest. Rethymno is smaller and calmer, with a long sandy beach right by town. If you want a town and a beach in one place, Rethymno suits you well. The two towns are about an hour apart, so you can see both.
Which airport is closest to Rethymno?
Rethymno lies roughly halfway between the airports at Chania and Heraklion. From Chania it takes about an hour by car, and from Heraklion a little longer. Choose the airport with the flight times that suit you best. Buses also run from both towns.
Does Rethymno have a good beach?
Yes, a long sandy beach starts just east of the old town and runs for many kilometres. It is busiest close to town and quieter further east. When the wind blows from the north, the waves can get big, so follow the flags.
How long should you stay in Rethymno?
Two or three nights are enough to see the old town and the fortress and take a day trip to Arkadi. Many people use Rethymno as a base for the whole holiday, as it sits in the middle of the island. From here you reach Chania, Heraklion and the south coast on day trips.