Travel advice
Car hire in Crete: the roads, driving times and hotels for a road trip
Crete is large, and the best beaches lie far from the resorts. With a hire car you reach Elafonisi, Balos and the mountain villages at your own pace. Here is what to know before you drive, and where to stay along the way.
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In short: car hire in Crete
Pick up the car at Chania or Heraklion airport, and choose full insurance. The main road along the north coast links the towns, while the mountain roads are narrow and winding. For a rural base with a car, Kapsaliana Village in the hills near Rethymno is our first choice.
Our first choice for a road trip: Check availability and prices at Kapsaliana Village Hotel
Car hire: See car hire and prices in Chania or in Heraklion
Driving times in Crete
Chania to Rethymno: about an hour
Chania to Heraklion: about two hours
Heraklion to Elounda: about an hour
Chania to Kissamos: about 45 minutes
Chania to Elafonisi: one and a half to two hours
These times assume light traffic. In summer the drive often takes longer, especially around the towns.
The roads and the driving
The main road along the north coast runs from Kissamos in the west to Agios Nikolaos in the east. It is mostly good, but has stretches with narrow lanes and lots of overtaking. Many drivers move onto the hard shoulder to let faster cars pass.
The roads over the mountains and down to the south coast are narrow, steep and winding. Allow plenty of time, and watch out for goats on the road. There are also gravel roads, including the last stretch to Balos.
Good to know: Many rental companies do not cover damage on gravel roads. Read the terms before you drive to Balos.
Insurance, licences and parking
A UK or EU driving licence is valid for hiring a car in Greece. Choose insurance with no excess, as narrow lanes and stone walls make scratches easy. Also check whether tyres, glass and the underside are covered.
Parking is difficult in the old towns of Chania and Rethymno. If you stay there, choose a hotel with parking or ask about the nearest car park before you arrive.
Compare car hire at the airport: See car hire and prices in Chania or in Heraklion
The Balos lagoon
The last stretch to Balos is a gravel road, and from the car park it is about twenty minutes down to the lagoon. Photo: Marina T / Unsplash
The hotels we pick for a road trip
Kapsaliana Village Hotel
Kapsaliana Village is a luxury hotel in a restored village in the hills near Rethymno. There is a restaurant, a spa, a pool bar and a terrace among the olive groves. By car you reach the north coast, the mountain villages and the road to the south coast from here. In the evening you drive home to quiet, dinner and a drink by the pool.
Best for: couples who want peace and a different kind of base.
Good to know: You need a car to reach the beaches.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Kapsaliana Village Hotel
Scalarea, Heraklion
Scalarea offers residences on a vineyard outside Heraklion, with breakfast from eight to twelve and parking included. Knossos is about ten minutes away by car. It is a quiet base for day trips in eastern Crete. In the evening you sit on the terrace looking out over the vines.
Best for: travellers who want to combine wine, food and archaeology.
Good to know: There is no beach nearby, so a car is essential.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Scalarea
Porto Veneziano Hotel, Chania
Porto Veneziano sits on the waterfront in Chania harbour and has both parking and car hire on site. Breakfast is included and gets praise from guests. You stay in the old town and have the car ready when you head out.
Best for: travellers who want to stay in the old town and keep the car close.
Good to know: It is a three-star hotel, so the rooms are simple and practical.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Porto Veneziano Hotel
Rimondi Boutique Hotels, Rethymno
Rimondi sits in the old town of Rethymno, halfway between Chania and Heraklion. The hotel has a roof terrace, two pools and a spa, and is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. From here both airports are about the same distance away.
Best for: couples who want a calm town in the middle of the island as a base.
Good to know: The old town is cramped, so ask the hotel about parking before you arrive.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Rimondi Boutique Hotels
In the middle of the island
Rimondi Boutique Hotels
Rimondi sits in the old town of Rethymno, halfway between Chania and Heraklion. From here you reach both airports, the south coast and the mountain villages on a day trip. In the evening you walk from the roof terrace down to the harbour and the restaurants.
Frequently asked questions about car hire in Crete
Do you need a hire car in Crete?
You do not need a car if you stay at a resort and mainly want to swim. To see Elafonisi, Balos, Samaria or the mountain villages, a car gives you far more freedom than the bus. Many people hire a car for a few days of the holiday and use taxis or buses the rest of the time.
Is it difficult to drive in Crete?
The main road on the north coast is easy enough, but the overtaking calls for attention. The mountain roads are narrow and winding, with animals on the road. Drive calmly, avoid unfamiliar roads after dark, and allow more time than the map suggests.
Can you drive to Balos in a hire car?
Yes, but the last nine kilometres from Kalyviani are a gravel road, and the drive takes about half an hour. Many rental companies do not cover damage on gravel roads, so read the terms first. Parking costs a little, and from there you walk about twenty minutes down. The boat from Kissamos is a good alternative.
Where should you pick up a hire car in Crete?
The easiest option is to collect the car at Chania or Heraklion airport when you land. That saves a taxi to the hotel. If you only need a car for a few days, you can also pick it up in town. Ask in advance if you want to return it at a different airport.