Munich travel guide: beer gardens, river surfers and the Alps
Long tables in beer halls, surfers riding a standing wave in the city park and the Alps on the horizon on a clear day. Munich is Germany at its most traditional, and it does tradition well.
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Munich
Photo: Anastasiya Dalenka / Unsplash
Munich, the capital of Bavaria
Stand on the bridge at the southern edge of the Englischer Garten and watch a queue of people in wetsuits, boards under their arms, waiting their turn on the Eisbach. The stream forms a standing wave here, and it has been surfed for decades. Ten minutes' walk away, others sit under chestnut trees with a litre of beer each. Munich manages to be both buttoned-up and playful.
Germany's third city is compact enough to walk, and the mountains are about an hour away by train. See the wider picture in our Germany travel guide.
Neighbourhoods to know
Altstadt
The old town around Marienplatz, with the town hall, the Viktualienmarkt food market and the Hofbräuhaus. The busiest part of town, and the part with most to see.
Maxvorstadt
The university quarter and the art district, home to the three Pinakothek galleries. Student bars and good coffee.
Schwabing
Leafy and elegant, right beside the Englischer Garten. Ideal if you want the park on your doorstep.
Glockenbachviertel
The city's most relaxed quarter, with small restaurants, bars and a lively gay scene along the Isar.
Three days in Munich
Day 1: Marienplatz, the Viktualienmarkt and the view from the tower of St Peter's church. Evening in an old-town beer hall.
Day 2: the Eisbach surfers and the beer garden at the Chinese Tower in the Englischer Garten, then an afternoon in the Pinakotheks.
Day 3: a day in the mountains at Garmisch-Partenkirchen, or a trip to Neuschwanstein Castle. Both need an early train.
Food and drink
Weisswurst, a white veal sausage, is traditionally eaten before noon with sweet mustard and a pretzel. Dinner means roast pork, dumplings and cabbage salad. In a traditional beer garden you can often bring your own food as long as you buy your drinks there. Oktoberfest starts in late September, and our Oktoberfest guide explains how to get a seat in the tents.
Hotel Bayerischer Hof
Photo: Hotels.com
Where to stay
The Altstadt is most convenient for a first visit, Schwabing is green and quiet, and Glockenbachviertel suits evenings out. Our Munich hotel guide has the full shortlist.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Hotel Bayerischer Hof
Good to know
Hotel prices soar during Oktoberfest. Book months ahead or pick another week.
The S-Bahn from the airport takes around 40 minutes to the centre.
Bavaria has more public holidays than most of Germany, so check shop hours before you travel.
Frequently asked questions about Munich
When is Oktoberfest in Munich?
It begins in the second half of September and ends on the first Sunday of October. When German Unity Day on 3 October falls just after, it runs a day or two longer.
How many days do you need in Munich?
Two days covers the city. Add a third for a day trip to the Alps or Neuschwanstein.
Can you do a day trip from Munich to the Alps?
Yes. Trains to Garmisch-Partenkirchen take around 90 minutes, and from there a cog railway and cable car climb towards the Zugspitze, Germany's highest peak.
What should I eat in Munich?
Weisswurst for breakfast, a pretzel at any hour and roast pork with dumplings for dinner, with beer from one of the city's own breweries.