Hamburg travel guide: harbour ferries, warehouses and a lake in the city
Ride a harbour ferry on a bus ticket, eat a fish roll for breakfast and hear a concert in one of the world's great halls by night. Hamburg is Germany's most northern-feeling city.
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Speicherstadt
Photo: Claudio Testa / Unsplash
Hamburg, a city that faces the water
The locals will tell you the best harbour tour costs the same as a bus fare. Ferry 62 leaves Landungsbrücken, part of the ordinary transport network, and for half an hour you slide west along the Elbe past cranes, shipyards and sandy riverbanks. No commentary, no souvenir photo, just the working port.
Hamburg is Germany's second city and its biggest port, and much of life here happens beside water: around the Alster lake in the centre and along the harbour. It has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined. For the rest of the country, see our Germany travel guide.
Neighbourhoods to know
Altstadt and Neustadt
The town hall, the shopping streets and the Binnenalster, the small inner lake ringed by cafés. Central and handsome.
Speicherstadt and HafenCity
The largest warehouse district in the world, all red brick and canals and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, next to the new HafenCity quarter with the Elbphilharmonie on its tip.
St. Pauli
The harbour district of the Reeperbahn, music venues and the football club with the skull-and-crossbones flag. Raw, honest and awake all night.
Sternschanze and Ottensen
Where many locals actually go out: small bars, vintage shops and long breakfasts. Ottensen is a short walk from Elbstrand, the city's own river beach.
Three days in Hamburg
Day 1: the Rathaus and Binnenalster, then Speicherstadt and the free Plaza viewing deck at the Elbphilharmonie (timed tickets on the door or online).
Day 2: the harbour ferry from Landungsbrücken, a walk through the old tunnel beneath the Elbe and lunch in Ottensen. Evening in the Schanze.
Day 3: the Sunday fish market if you can face an early start, then a boat on the Alster and a slow afternoon in the Planten un Blomen park.
Food and drink
The Fischbrötchen, a bread roll filled with pickled herring or fried fish, is the snack of the harbour. With coffee, order a Franzbrötchen, a flattened cinnamon pastry the city claims as its own. The harbour quarter also has a cluster of Portuguese restaurants, a legacy of the sailors who settled here. In December, look at our pick of Hamburg's Christmas markets.
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
Photo: Hotels.com
Where to stay
Stay by the Alster for calm and convenience, in HafenCity for the harbour and modern design, or in St. Pauli to be in the middle of the nightlife. Our Hamburg hotel guide has the details.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
Good to know
The S-Bahn runs from the airport to Hauptbahnhof in around 25 minutes.
Direct trains link Hamburg with Copenhagen, Berlin and Amsterdam, which makes it an easy stop on a rail trip.
Hamburg has a reputation for rain. Pack a jacket whatever the season.
Frequently asked questions about Hamburg
Is Hamburg worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you like cities with water, architecture and good music. It is less crowded with tourists than Berlin or Munich.
Is the Elbphilharmonie free to visit?
The Plaza viewing deck is free with a timed ticket. Concert tickets are separate and often sell out early.
Can I use a normal ticket on the harbour ferries?
Yes. The Elbe ferries are part of Hamburg's public transport network, so a standard or day ticket is valid.
How many days do you need in Hamburg?
Two or three days is right for the harbour, Speicherstadt, a concert and a night in St. Pauli.