Hvar: Croatia's sunniest island, from Hvar Town to Stari Grad
Hvar is more than yachts and beach bars. The island has one of Europe's oldest town centres, lavender fields inland and the Pakleni Islands just off the harbour. How to find the Hvar that suits you.
Hvar Town
Photo: Bells Mayer / Unsplash
Hvar: more than a party island
The catamaran from Split rounds the headland and Hvar Town opens up: a square of white stone, the cathedral with its bell tower and the fortress on the hill above. Yachts line up along the harbour. Hvar is Croatia's best-known island and one of the sunniest in the Mediterranean.
Its party reputation holds true in Hvar Town in summer, but that is only a small part of the island. Further east is Stari Grad, founded by the Greeks in 384 BC, and Jelsa, a quiet harbour town with wine bars. Inland, the island grows lavender, olives and grapes. For the rest of the country, see our Croatia travel guide.
Things to do on Hvar
Climb to the fortress. Fortica, also called Španjola, sits above Hvar Town. The view over the harbour and the Pakleni Islands is best just before sunset.
Take a water taxi to the Pakleni Islands. Wooded islets with coves, restaurants and clear water, ten to twenty minutes from the harbour.
See the theatre in the Arsenal. Dating from 1612, it is considered one of the oldest public theatres in Europe.
Explore Stari Grad. The old town and the fields around it, the Stari Grad Plain, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The stone walls dividing the fields are over 2,000 years old.
Drive inland. Villages such as Velo Grablje and Brusje have lavender fields that bloom in June and July, and roads with views over both sides of the island.
Taste the wine. Plavac mali is the red grape of the island's south side. Several wineries offer tastings.
Hvar Town square
Photo: Lawrence Chismorie / Unsplash
Beaches on Hvar
The beaches are mostly pebbles and rocks. The best are on the Pakleni Islands, such as Palmižana and Jerolim. On Hvar itself, Dubovica, between Hvar Town and Jelsa, is a small cove with clear water worth the drive. More of the country's best are in the best beaches in Croatia.
Where to stay on Hvar
Hvar Town: for restaurants, evenings out and boats to the Pakleni Islands. Busy and expensive in July and August.
Stari Grad: quieter, with the car ferry and the history. A good base with a hire car.
Jelsa: a small harbour town, good for families and anyone after peace.
How to get to Hvar
The catamaran from Split to Hvar Town takes around an hour. The car ferry runs from Split to Stari Grad in around two hours. In summer there are also boats from Dubrovnik and Korčula. Read more about Split, where most trips start.
When to go to Hvar
June and September are best. The sea is warm and there is room in the harbour and on the beaches. July and August are hottest, priciest and busiest, especially in Hvar Town. The lavender blooms from mid-June to mid-July. From November to March many hotels and restaurants are closed.
Frequently asked questions about Hvar
How long is the boat from Split to Hvar?
The catamaran from Split to Hvar Town takes around an hour. The car ferry to Stari Grad takes around two hours.
Is Hvar just a party island?
No. Hvar Town is lively in summer, but Stari Grad, Jelsa and the inland villages are quiet and suit couples and families well.
Where are the best beaches on Hvar?
The best are on the Pakleni Islands, such as Palmižana and Jerolim, by water taxi from Hvar Town. On the main island, Dubovica is one of the most beautiful.
When does the lavender bloom on Hvar?
The lavender blooms from mid-June to mid-July, with the largest fields around the villages of Velo Grablje and Brusje.