Brussels travel guide: the Grand-Place, art nouveau and beer cafés
Europe's most underrated capital is better than its reputation. Brussels has one of the world's great squares, streets of art nouveau and beer cafés with menus as long as a novel.
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Grand-Place
Photo: Stephanie LeBlanc / Unsplash
Brussels, the bilingual capital
Walk onto the Grand-Place after dark, once the tour groups have gone. The gilded guildhall façades glow, and even seasoned travellers stop in the middle of the cobbles. It is one of the finest squares in Europe, and it costs nothing.
Belgium's capital is home to the European Commission and is officially bilingual, French and Dutch. It is far more varied than the office blocks of the EU quarter suggest. For the rest of the country, see our Belgium travel guide.
Neighbourhoods to know
Around the Grand-Place
Narrow lanes of restaurants and chocolate shops, plus the Manneken Pis, which is smaller than almost everyone expects.
Sablon
Antique dealers, chocolatiers and a beautiful Gothic church. The weekend antiques market is worth a wander.
Ixelles and Saint-Gilles
Art nouveau townhouses, cafés and the African restaurants of the Matongé quarter. Where many younger locals live.
The European quarter
Parliament and Commission, but also the Cinquantenaire park and its museums.
Two days in Brussels
Day 1: the Grand-Place, the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert arcades and the Sablon. Afternoon at the Magritte Museum. Evening in a beer café in the centre.
Day 2: art nouveau in Ixelles and Saint-Gilles, including the Horta Museum (book ahead), lunch in Matongé and a walk in the Cinquantenaire park.
With a third day, take the train to Ghent or Bruges. Both are under an hour away.
Food and drink
Brussels eats well. Mussels and chips, stoemp (mashed potato with vegetables) and street-stall waffles are the classics. The city is also covered in comic strip murals, a nod to Tintin and Belgium's long comics tradition, so look up between meals.
The Dominican
Photo: Hotels.com
Where to stay
Stay near the Grand-Place for a short visit, in the Sablon for elegance and quiet, or in Ixelles to live among locals. Our Brussels hotel guide has the shortlist.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Dominican
Good to know
Trains from the airport reach central Brussels in around 20 minutes.
Skip the restaurants touting set menus on Rue des Bouchers. Walk a few blocks further.
Many museums close on Mondays.
Frequently asked questions about Brussels
How many days do you need in Brussels?
Two days covers the city. Add a third for a day trip to Bruges or Ghent.
Is Brussels worth visiting?
Yes, especially for architecture, art and food. It is less polished than Paris or Amsterdam, and far less crowded.
How do I get from Brussels Airport to the city centre?
Trains from the station beneath the terminal reach the centre in around 20 minutes.
Can you do a day trip from Brussels to Bruges?
Yes. The train takes about an hour, with several departures every hour.