South Korea holidays: Seoul, Busan, Jeju and the food
Palaces between skyscrapers, night markets until late, temples in the mountains and a volcanic island in the south. South Korea is Asia's most underrated trip, and easy to do independently.
Seoul
Photo: Daniel Bernard / Unsplash
South Korea at a glance
You stand at the gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, and behind the painted roofs the skyscrapers rise towards the mountains. Ten minutes later you are on a stool at Gwangjang Market with a plate of bindaetteok. South Korea combines ancient culture with one of the world's most modern cities, and the bullet train makes it easy to get around.
The currency is the Korean won. Some nationalities must apply for an electronic travel authorisation (K-ETA) before travel, so check whether it applies to you. For more of the region, see our Asia travel guide.
How to plan your trip
Seoul, for palaces, markets and neighbourhoods
Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, the traditional houses of Bukchon, shopping in Myeongdong and nightlife in Hongdae. Stay at least four nights.
Gyeongju, the museum without walls
The old royal capital is full of burial mounds, temples and Bulguksa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Busan, for harbour and beaches
The second city has beaches such as Haeundae, the Jagalchi fish market and the colourful Gamcheon village.
Jeju, the volcanic island
The Seongsan Ilchulbong crater, lava tubes and coastal trails. Short flights from Seoul and Busan.
Busan
Photo: Luke Ow / Unsplash
When to go
April and May: cherry blossom and comfortable temperatures.
September to November: clear skies and autumn colours in the mountains. The best time.
July and August: hot, humid and rainy season.
December to February: cold and dry, with skiing in the mountains.
Good to know
The KTX bullet train runs from Seoul to Busan in under three hours.
Download local map apps such as Naver Map or KakaoMap. Google Maps works poorly for directions.
A T-money card works on the metro, buses and in many shops.
Where to stay
Four Seasons Hotel Seoul, Signiel in the Lotte World Tower and Josun Palace are among the best in Seoul. In Busan, the Park Hyatt overlooks the marina. A dedicated South Korea hotel guide is on the way. Combining it? See our Japan guide.
Frequently asked questions about South Korea
How long should I spend in South Korea?
Ten to fourteen days cover Seoul, Gyeongju, Busan and Jeju.
When is the best time to visit South Korea?
April and May or September to November.
Can I combine South Korea and Japan?
Yes. Flights between Seoul and Tokyo are short, and ferries run from Busan to Fukuoka.
Is South Korea expensive?
Food and transport are good value. Hotels in Seoul are on a par with other big cities.