Maldives
The Maldives by atoll: where to stay
The Maldives is 26 atolls scattered across several hundred kilometres of ocean. The one you choose decides how long the journey takes, what you see underwater and how many other boats share your lagoon.
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In short: the Maldives atolls
Choose your atoll by the transfer and by what you want to see. North Malé is closest to the airport and reached by speedboat, even after dark. Baa is the place for manta rays, South Ari for whale sharks, while Lhaviyani and Laamu are quieter atolls further out. We recommend resorts in five atolls.
Editor's first choice: Jawakara Islands in Lhaviyani, an excellent resort where we have stayed ourselves and which Picolo warmly recommends. Check availability and prices
North Malé: closest to the airport
North Malé Atoll wraps around the airport, and its resorts collect you by speedboat. That means the shortest journey and the freest choice of flights, because the boats also run after dark. The atoll has plenty of resorts, so you will see more boats and neighbouring islands than further out.
Gili Lankanfushi
The villa's living room opens onto the lagoon, so you hear the water beneath the floor.
Gili Lankanfushi
Every villa stands over the lagoon, and the boat from the airport takes about twenty minutes. Made for couples who want an overwater villa without a long transfer.
One&Only Reethi Rah
Reethi Rah is large enough for its overwater villas to sit well apart in the lagoon.
One&Only Reethi Rah
One of the largest resort islands in the atoll, with twelve beaches and six kilometres of coastline. The kids' club and sheer space make it a strong choice for families.
Baa: the manta atoll
Baa Atoll is a UNESCO biosphere reserve. From June to November, manta rays gather in Hanifaru Bay, where only snorkelling is allowed. You get here by seaplane, so your flights need to fit the daylight.
Milaidhoo
Milaidhoo's villas sit close to the beach, with the lagoon right in front.
Milaidhoo
A small island near Hanifaru Bay where every villa has its own pool. Calm and grown-up, and a good base for manta trips in season.
Dusit Thani Maldives
Dusit Thani has the island to itself, with the reef forming a ring around it.
Dusit Thani Maldives
The island is round, with the house reef just off the beach and overwater villas reaching into the lagoon. Suits families who want beach days and marine life in one place.
South Ari: whale sharks and dinner under the sea
South Ari Atoll lies west of Malé, half an hour by seaplane. Whale sharks stay along the outer reef here all year, which makes the atoll a good choice when you cannot pick your travel dates.
LUX* South Ari Atoll
From the decks at LUX* South Ari you look straight out across the atoll.
LUX* South Ari Atoll
The resort sits right where the whale sharks live, and the beach runs the length of the island. A good choice for families and for anyone who wants to snorkel with the world's largest fish.
Lhaviyani: quiet, and a resort we recommend
Lhaviyani lies north of Malé, around 35 to 40 minutes by seaplane. It has fewer resorts than the Malé atolls and fine dive sites with turtles, rays and reef sharks. The atoll is also home to 5.8 Undersea Restaurant at Hurawalhi, 5.8 metres below the surface. From Jawakara it took us around an hour and a half by fast boat.
Jawakara Islands
The bridge over the house reef ties Mabin and Dheru together.
Jawakara Islands
Picolo has stayed at Jawakara, in a bungalow with its own pool. The two islands, Mabin and Dheru, are joined by a long bridge over the house reef. Between meals at the excellent restaurants we played golf and tennis, had massages at the spa and dived with turtles and dolphins. You arrive by seaplane, or by domestic flight and speedboat when the timings do not suit the seaplane.
Laamu: far south and far away
Laamu lies a long way south, reached by domestic flight to Kadhdhoo and then speedboat. There are few resorts, and from March to October the surfers arrive for the waves.
Six Senses Laamu
Villas at Six Senses Laamu have a deck with a pool right above the lagoon.
Six Senses Laamu
The villas stand over the lagoon or along the beach, many with a pool on the deck. One of the most peaceful places in the Maldives, with room for long days and no plans.
How to choose your atoll
Short trip or late flights: North Malé, with speedboats that run around the clock.
Manta rays: Baa, from June to November.
Whale sharks: South Ari, all year.
Quiet and few neighbours: Lhaviyani or Laamu.
How the transfer affects your flight times is covered in our guide to seaplane or speedboat.
Our recommendation
Conrad Rangali: Ithaa and two islands in South Ari
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island stretches across two islands in South Ari Atoll, joined by a bridge. This is home to Ithaa Undersea Restaurant, five metres below the surface, with glass walls and ceiling and fish drifting past while you eat. Picolo recommends both the restaurant and the resort. One island has beach villas and space for families, the other is smaller and quieter. Book your table at Ithaa well ahead, and set your flight times by the seaplane so you make it to dinner.
Questions and answers
Which is the best atoll in the Maldives?
It depends on what you want. North Malé is best for a short journey and late flights, Baa for manta rays, South Ari for whale sharks, and Lhaviyani and Laamu for peace and quiet. Choose the atoll first and the resort second, because the atoll decides both the transfer and what you see underwater.
How many atolls does the Maldives have?
The Maldives has 26 natural atolls, grouped into around 20 administrative atolls. Resorts are spread across most of them, from Haa Alif in the north to Addu in the south. Most travellers stay in the atolls within an hour of the airport in Malé, where the choice of resorts is widest.
Which atoll is closest to Malé?
North Malé and South Malé are closest to the airport, and their resorts are reached by speedboat in anything from fifteen minutes to just under an hour. Speedboats can also run after dark, so these atolls suit you best when your flight lands late or leaves early. You can be on the beach the same evening you land.
Where can you see manta rays in the Maldives?
The largest gatherings are in Hanifaru Bay in Baa Atoll from June to November. The bay is protected, and only guided snorkelling is allowed there. Manta rays are also found around other atolls through the year, including Ari and Lhaviyani, so a sighting is possible outside the main season too.