Hotels
The best hotels in India: nine palaces and grand hotels, from Mumbai to Udaipur
The boat leaves the jetty below the City Palace in Udaipur, and after five minutes on Lake Pichola it glides up to a white marble palace that seems to float on the water. India has some of the most spectacular hotels in the world, and not so long ago many of them were palaces for maharajas.
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India is vast, and most first-time visitors stay in the north. The classic route is the Golden Triangle: Delhi, Agra with the Taj Mahal, and Jaipur in Rajasthan. Many add Udaipur, the city of lakes, and start or finish in Mumbai on the west coast. Between the cities you take the train, a domestic flight or a car with a driver.
We have chosen nine hotels in five cities and say who each one suits. Every hotel has a guest rating of at least 8.8 out of 10 and more than 50 reviews on Expedia. The links go there, and we always pick the hotel before we look for a link. Several are former palaces run by the Indian groups Taj and Oberoi.
In short: where should you stay in India?
On the Golden Triangle, stay by the Taj Mahal in Agra and in a palace in Jaipur. If you have time for one more city, choose Udaipur and a hotel on Lake Pichola. In Mumbai, the Taj Mahal Palace is the classic.
Best for the Taj Mahal: The Oberoi Amarvilas
Best palace: Rambagh Palace in Jaipur
Best for romance: Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur
Best in Mumbai: The Taj Mahal Palace
Best in Delhi: The Imperial
How to choose the right hotel in India
Route first: decide on the cities before the hotels. Driving between Delhi, Agra and Jaipur takes three to five hours.
Palace hotels: many of the best hotels are former palaces. Rooms in the original wings have the most character, but newer ones are often larger.
Season: October to March is dry and pleasant. From April it gets very hot, and the monsoon arrives in June.
Weddings and festivals: during the winter wedding season and around Diwali, palace hotels can be fully booked.
Traffic: the cities are chaotic. A well-placed hotel saves you hours in the car.
The facade at night
The lit-up facade of The Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai at night.
Mumbai
Mumbai is India's largest city and financial capital, with colonial buildings in Colaba and Fort and the Marine Drive promenade along the sea.
The Taj Mahal Palace: the grand hotel by the Gateway of India
The Taj Mahal Palace opened in 1903 opposite the Gateway of India in Colaba. Its red dome is one of the city's landmarks, and the heritage wing has sweeping staircases, art and views across the harbour.
This is our Mumbai pick, for the history and the location. Rooms in the heritage wing cost the most and are worth it. Have a drink in the Harbour Bar, one of the oldest in the city.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Taj Mahal Palace
The sea-view lounge
The lounge with a grand piano and windows facing the sea at The Oberoi Mumbai.
The Oberoi Mumbai: sea views from Nariman Point
The Oberoi stands at Nariman Point at the end of Marine Drive, with big windows facing the Arabian Sea from most rooms. The style is modern and calm, and service is among the best in the city.
It suits you if you want peace and a sea view, perhaps on a business trip. It has less history than the Taj. Walk along Marine Drive at sunset, when the whole city is out.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Oberoi Mumbai
The pool
The pool with patterned tiles at The Imperial, seen from above.
Delhi
Delhi is the capital, with Old Delhi around the Red Fort and the wide avenues of New Delhi, laid out by the British in the 1920s.
The Imperial: art deco on Janpath
The Imperial opened in 1931 on Janpath, close to Connaught Place. It has a large collection of colonial-era art and prints, and a palm-lined garden in the middle of the city.
This is our Delhi pick, for the location and the atmosphere. It is an old hotel, and some rooms are darker than in newer hotels. Take afternoon tea in the lounge.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Imperial New Delhi
The rooftop pool
The rooftop pool at The Leela Palace New Delhi at dusk.
The Leela Palace New Delhi: a rooftop pool in the embassy district
The Leela Palace is in Chanakyapuri, the embassy district, built as a modern palace with marble, chandeliers and a pool on the roof.
It suits you if you want serious luxury and quiet surroundings. It is some way from the old parts of the city, so plan on a car. The rooftop pool is lovely at sunset in winter.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Leela Palace New Delhi
The Taj Mahal view
The view of the Taj Mahal from a terrace at The Oberoi Amarvilas.
Agra
Agra is the city of the Taj Mahal, about three hours from Delhi by car or train. Most visitors stay a single night.
The Oberoi Amarvilas: the Taj Mahal from your room
Amarvilas is about 600 metres from the Taj Mahal, and every room looks towards the monument. It is built in Mughal style, with fountains, terraces and a large pool.
This is our pick for the Taj Mahal, and one of the few hotels in India worth the price for the view alone. Electric buggies take guests to the entrance. Go at sunrise, before the crowds and the heat. The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays, so plan Agra for another day.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Oberoi Amarvilas
The palace at dusk
Rambagh Palace in Jaipur lit up at dusk.
Jaipur
Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, known as the Pink City. It is home to the Amber Fort, the City Palace and the bazaars.
Rambagh Palace: the maharaja's palace
Rambagh Palace was the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and became a hotel in 1957. It stands in large gardens with peacocks, and rooms have marble, carved furniture and high ceilings.
This is our palace pick, if you want to stay like royalty. It is a little outside the old city, but close enough for a short taxi ride. Have a drink on the veranda of the Polo Bar.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Rambagh Palace
The pool pavilion
The pavilion and pool at The Oberoi Rajvilas in the evening.
The Oberoi Rajvilas: a fort in the garden
Rajvilas sits outside Jaipur, in a large garden laid out like a small fort with moats and pavilions. Guests stay in rooms, luxury tents or villas with private pools.
It suits couples and anyone who wants to rest between excursions. It takes about half an hour to reach the city. The spa is housed in an old mansion and is among the best in the country.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at The Oberoi Rajvilas
The courtyard at night
The courtyard with its pool and domes at Taj Lake Palace at night.
Udaipur
Udaipur lies in southern Rajasthan on Lake Pichola, with palaces, temples and white houses along the water.
Taj Lake Palace: the palace in the lake
Taj Lake Palace was built in the 1740s as a summer palace on an island in Lake Pichola, and you can only reach it by boat. It is clad in white marble, and parts of the James Bond film Octopussy were shot here.
This is our romantic pick, and one of the most famous hotels in the world. Lake-facing rooms are the best. There is little space on the island, so spend the days in the city and the evenings on the terrace.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Taj Lake Palace
The lake view
The view over Lake Pichola and the hills from Taj Fateh Prakash Palace.
Taj Fateh Prakash Palace: inside the City Palace
Fateh Prakash is part of the City Palace in Udaipur, with rooms and suites facing Lake Pichola. Its Durbar Hall holds a famous collection of crystal furniture, and the terrace looks straight across to the Lake Palace.
It suits you if you want to stay in town, with the palace and the bazaars on the doorstep. Rooms are smaller than at the Lake Palace, and prices lower. Book dinner on the terrace at sunset.
Book your stay: Check availability and prices at Taj Fateh Prakash Palace
When should you book?
October to March: dry, pleasant and high season. Book palace hotels well ahead.
April to June: very hot in the north. Lower prices, but tiring days.
July to September: monsoon. Udaipur is green and lovely, but it rains a lot.
Frequently asked questions about hotels in India
How many nights do I need in India?
Seven or eight nights cover the Golden Triangle: two in Delhi, one in Agra and two or three in Jaipur. Add three nights in Udaipur if you can, and two in Mumbai if you fly home from there.
Why is Taj Falaknuma Palace not on the list?
The palace in Hyderabad is far from the usual northern route, and we have kept the guide to the cities most people visit. The Oberoi Udaivilas and the Leela Palace Udaipur are not included either, as they did not come up in our search on Expedia.
Is it safe to stay in hotels in India?
Yes, the big hotels have security checks at the entrance and good service. Drink bottled water, and be careful with raw food outside the hotel for the first few days.
Do I need a visa for India?
Yes. British citizens apply for an e-visa online before departure. Apply in good time, and check that your passport is valid for at least six months after arrival.
How do I travel between the cities?
Trains are quick and cheap between Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Many people use a car with a driver, which hotels can arrange. For Udaipur and Mumbai, a domestic flight is easiest.