Essaouira: the white medina on the Atlantic

Essaouira: where the wind comes off the sea

It is eight in the morning and the fishing boats have just come in. On the quay, sardines, octopus and turbot are sold from crates while gulls wheel over the blue boats. Behind the harbour rise the town walls, and inside lies a medina of white houses with blue shutters. Essaouira is Morocco's most relaxed town.

It was built in the 18th century by the sultan to plans by a French architect, and the medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The streets are straight enough that you will not get lost, and the traders calmer than in Marrakech. For the rest of the country, see our Morocco travel guide.

Things to do in Essaouira

• Skala de la Ville: the cannons on the sea wall, with views over the rocks and waves. Come at sunset.

• The fishing port: watch the catch come in, then eat grilled fish at the stalls nearby.

• The medina: narrow lanes of woodcarvers, spice stalls and galleries. Thuya, the fragrant local wood, is the town's speciality.

• The beach: the long sandy beach south of the medina. It is often windy, so it suits walks better than sunbathing.

• Kitesurfing and windsurfing: the Atlantic wind has earned the town the nickname the Wind City of Africa. The schools are along the beach.

• Gnawa music: the spiritual music with roots in West Africa drifts through the medina in the evenings, and the town hosts a large gnawa festival in summer.

Game of Thrones in Essaouira

The ramparts and harbour stood in for the slave city of Astapor in the third season of Game of Thrones. Many fans recognise the Skala du Port, the fortified tower at the harbour.

Day trip or overnight?

Essaouira is about three hours by car from Marrakech, and many visitors come for the day. But the best moments are early morning at the harbour and evening on the walls. Stay at least one night, ideally two, in a riad in the medina. Riads are traditional houses built around a courtyard. Read more about Marrakech, where most trips start.

Where to stay

• The medina: small riads with roof terraces, close to everything.

• Along the beach: larger hotels south of the medina, with views over the bay.

• Diabat and the countryside: quiet guesthouses among the argan trees.

When to go to Essaouira

Essaouira stays cool in summer, at around 22 to 25°C when Marrakech is over 40°C. That makes it a good summer choice. In winter it is around 18 to 20°C. The wind blows hardest from April to September, which is when the kitesurfers arrive. Spring and autumn are calm and pleasant.

Frequently asked questions about Essaouira

Is Essaouira worth visiting?

Yes. The town is calmer than Marrakech, with a beautiful medina, a fishing port and a beach. It suits a night or two on a tour of Morocco.

How far is Marrakech from Essaouira?

It takes around three hours by car or bus between Marrakech and Essaouira.

Can you swim in Essaouira?

You can, but the Atlantic wind and waves make the beach better for walks and kitesurfing than swimming. The water is cool for much of the year.

Where was Game of Thrones filmed in Essaouira?

The ramparts and harbour, including the Skala du Port, stood in for the city of Astapor in season three.