Silk lanterns, yellow merchant houses and some of the best food in Vietnam. Hoi An is a town you will want to stay in longer than planned.
The Thu Bon river
Boats on the Thu Bon river carry floating lanterns at night, a magical way to see the old town.
Hoi An lies on the coast of central Vietnam, about 30 kilometres south of Da Nang. For centuries it was an important trading port, and Chinese, Japanese and European merchants left their mark on its streets. Today the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As our writer discovered, it is a city you simply have to make time for. Read her story about Hoi An, the city of romance, exceptional food and bespoke outfits.
Beautiful evenings
When darkness falls, thousands of silk lanterns light up the old town.
Wander the old town early in the morning before the crowds arrive, visit the Japanese Covered Bridge and the old assembly halls, then take a boat out on the river at dusk. Have clothes made to measure at one of the town's many tailors; most need a day or two and a fitting or two.
Rent a bicycle and ride out through the rice fields to An Bang beach, take a cooking class or go on a day trip to the ruins of My Son or the Marble Mountains near Da Nang.
The best dumplings in the world?
Hoi An's white rose dumplings are a local speciality you will not find made the same way anywhere else.
Hoi An is a food town. Try cao lau, the local noodle dish, white rose dumplings and a banh mi from one of the town's famous sandwich stalls. Street food is cheap and excellent, and the riverside restaurants come alive at night.
Do not leave without trying fried ice cream, a sweet treat our writer still dreams about. For more destinations in the country, see our Vietnam holidays guide.
On two wheels
Bicycles are the best way to get around Hoi An and the countryside around it.
The best time to visit Hoi An is from February to May, when it is warm and mostly dry. Summer is hot and good for the beach. From around September to December, central Vietnam has its rainy season, and the old town can flood after heavy rain.
Plan your visit around the monthly full moon if you can, when the old town turns off its electric lights and the streets are lit only by lanterns.
Three to four days is ideal. That gives you time to explore the old town, have clothes made, spend a day at the beach, cycle through the countryside and take a day trip to My Son or Da Nang. Many travellers end up staying longer.
The nearest airport is Da Nang, about 45 minutes away by car or taxi. Da Nang also has a train station on the main north to south railway, so Hoi An is easy to include on a journey through Vietnam.
Yes, Hoi An is famous for its tailors. Bring a photo or an item you want copied, allow at least two days for fittings and alterations, and agree the price and fabric clearly before work begins.
The lantern festival is held every month on the evening of the full moon, according to the lunar calendar. Electric lights in the old town are switched off, lanterns are lit and many people release floating candles on the river.
Stay in or right next to the Old Town for the lanterns, tailors and food markets within walking distance. If you want a beach, stay at An Bang or Cua Dai a few kilometres away and cycle into town. Many hotels lend out bikes, which is the easiest way to get around. Read Hoi An: the city of romance and exceptional food.
